Another EAS question....

After looking up some info on the EAS for my 96 RR... I am CONFUSED about how to fix.  I bought the rover from some a private seller.  He told me that the EAS worked, but when the battery went dead he tried to jump start and the truck would not start.  He said that it sat about a month till he purchased a new battery.  Upon installation of the new battery he said the air suspension no longer worked.  I agreed on purchasing the vehicle as is and thought I could try to figure it out and get the suspension fixed because I really liked the overall rover.  Now after doing some research about the air suspension I am kind of lost.  I notice how many said the EAS system was expensive to maintain, so I thought coil spring conversion... Although keeping the EAS would be nice, but the nearest LR dealer is 150 miles away.
 
Right now the truck is sittin LOW (bump stops)!  When the ignition is turned on all the lights come on I get the "EAS FAULT".  I don't what and how to test anything to figure out the problem.... Could anyone help with some troubleshooting steps?  One thing I checked was the fuse under the hood that has the picture of the truck and the up/down arrows... it was Okay!  When I press the up/down buttons on the dash I dont hear anything happening with the compressor. 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Thanks

Usually the way the system fails is like this:  The bags begin to leak/crack...which causes the compressor to work harder and longer to maintain ride height, which causes compressor overload, which burns it out, flips the thermal switch (not actually a switch, it is an intergral part of the compressor), and kills the compressor. 

The best way to do it is to catch the system before it faults out..but since you have, you're stuck.  A rover scan tool can read the EAS computer, and there are a few ways to diagnose the system on your own.  You can also manually jump the compressor by grounding out the wiring harness under the seat and see if the compressor works and you just blew a bag causing the fault.

Read through all the articles on RangeRovers.net regarding the EAS system diagnosis and repair:

http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails/index.html#suspension2


Good luck!  My EAS went out at 81k miles, and I just went for the coil conversion to save me $6000 and the trouble down the road with replacing the EAS . 

On the "Main System Components and Failure Modes" under the compressor section it states: On the 4.0/4.6, failure of compressor to operate at all can mean maxi fuse 2 is blown or Relay 20 is defunct. 
The fuse on my RR is not blown, but I dont know about the relay.  Do they sell them at regular auto part stores?

Swap it with another similar relay.

Thats right! Wolfpack has it to the tee!  If you really want to keep your EAS then outside of doing a visual scan of the bags and lines you have to do the scan to find the fault.  I would remind you that your year of Rover is only the 3rd year to have the EAS System and although some say you can get good articulation with it, it may not be worth having to be towed from the middle of nowhere or try and drive (not over 20MPH) back home only to have to replace part of the system or just get pissed and do the coil spring conversion.  The coil spring conversion has its advantages, you can go with a better, larger tires, in most cases that may save some dough and allow for other fun stuff you can save up for.  Just my 2 cents!
 
Mine went out on the way home from a friends house and I was happy the whole way because I wasn't stuck in the middle of MOAB trying to get back home.  I kept the parts, which I pulled everything off and took about 25-30 lbs. off my truck.  I'm thinking about modifing my air tank to a compressor to quickly re-fill my tires in the field.
 
Old Man Emu medium springs with Old Man Emu heavy duty Shocks.

I just checked out my RR at my local mechanic shop and he just finished the Coil spring conversion...  The back looks good (not too high), but the front look higher than the ba ck(almost double the gap on the wheel well).  I don't think it looks right...  I bought the spring package from Land Rover Parts (roverlandparts.com).  Has anyone had an issue with this?

Thanks

it might need to just settle out...but I still have about 1'' or less of forward rake...I havn't measure though, just going off memory 

Well Im out of town for the weekend, but when I get home I will try measure to see how much I have...  If you wouldn't mind, could you measure the distance from the floor to the highest area on the wheel well so I can compare?  And where did you get your spring conversion from? and would having adjustable shocks help get a lower look, or is that just for the quality of the ride?
 
Thanks

I sure can measure for ya tomorrow.    As for the springs...couldn't tell ya where...I just know I requested the +2 kit, and the shop ordered and did the work for me.  Worked out the best for me at the time 

I used Old Man EMU and did the work myself.  If memory serves, the rear are larger than the front, so your mech placed the front on the rear and the rear on the front.  Mine is level and looking good~!

Here is a link to a pic of my 96 Rover with the spring conversion from Land Rover Parts...  I guess it doesnt look higher in the front like I said earlier.  What you guys think???

http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn315/wizardmagu/?action=view&current=Rover.jpg

After riding around for a couple of days I have had some comments that the back end looks slightly lower than the front.  I measured the back end (floor to top point on wheel well)...     31 1/2".  The front was 32 3/4"...  I called Land Rover Parts to talk to them about what happened and the said the mechanic might have put the springs on backwards... just like RED mentioned.  So I went back to my mech and he said that he did not think they were put on backwards because a the lock collar would not go into end of the spring... He said that he was 99% sure that they wear on right...  What do you guys think I should do?

There should have been instructions sent with the kit.  If you don't have them, call the place you ordered it from and have them verify that the rear springs are larger than the front. Then take your baby back to your mechanic with that information.

I spent almost 9k in parts and labor (bags, compressor, valve, lines, etc) on a 96 4.6 at 91k trying to revive the EAS system.  Not worth it.  Put springs on it about 6 mos. ago and never looked back.  Its not a daily driver anymore, but when needed on the weekend to haul stuff and not mess up my new one, at least it's level every time I go to use it.

Thanks to all for the reply's...  My mech talked with Roverland Parts and they were great about making sure everything was how it needed to be.  Instructions that came with package were not very good...  My mech swapped the springs and now she sits nice and level... Will post some pic later...
 
Thanks

two thoughts on this one...

My 1993 EAS on the LWB RRC was sitting with a dead battery. instead of putting a new/charged battery in I tried to crank it over and POOOF, out goes the EAS. I guess the dealer can clear the code for $100 or so, but I've progressed on debugging myself since the nearest dealer is 30 minutes away and it's a big inconvenience to take it in.

Here is what I learned.... On the 93 (96 is probably similar...) I found the EAS computer brain under the passenger seat, pulled the plug on it, and made 5 jump wires from solid copper AC house wire. jump pins to turn on the compressor, let air into each corner. I found my left front leaks air over 3 days. I actually LIKE the manual mode since most of the time I want the suspension up high. I wish there was a manual mode and computer mode on these.


Search for wiring diagrams at http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/suspump.html#jumpers

EAS


I printed the web site to PDF (MAC feature) file from http://rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/suspump.html#jumpers and keep it on my MAC for reference when off the grid.... try that one...

here is text from there you can read and search on google to find if the link isn't up to date:

3. Manual Activation of EAS Valves using Jumper Wires
If your EAS system has gone into hard fault mode, but there are no leaks (eg you have replaced a leaking air bladder)
and nothing is wrong with the compressor or the valve block, you can restore normal ride height through crafty use of
jumper wires to operate the solenoid valves in the valve block manually, causing air to flow in the appropriate directions.
If the air supply is exhausted, you may first have to manually operate the compressor (see section 4 below) to fill up the
reservoir.
I would suggest removing the EAS timer/delay module first (see picture at this link) to prevent the dash lighting up like a
Christmas tree. You can then unplug the connector (designated C117 on the 4.0/4.6 and C331 on Classic EAS models) to
the EAS ECU under the left hand passenger seat (see photo art right, 4.0/4.6). Partially disassembling the connector by
unscrewing the single screw on its shell and sliding the cover off allows you to get access to the back of the pins and
read the numbers. Alternatively, on the 4.0/4.6 you can accomplish the same result using connector C152 inside the
plastic EAS enclosure for the compressor and valve block in the engine bay. (Connector C139 underneath the valve block
would be even better, as it is the least ambiguous in the circuit diagram provided in the ETM, but unfortunately it is
inaccessible without removing the entire valve block -- see valve block removal procedure).
EAS Timer Relay located under left
side of LH front seat (4.0/4.6)
ECU Connector C117 located under
front of LH front seat on 4.0/4.6 (C331
on Classic)

Good luck.

BTW -- when you plug the socket back in and start the car the suspension will go back to the stops. You will need to leave it unplugged. I haven't had problems leaving mine unplugged, however, I did jump the wrong PIN once and blew out some fuse that I can't find yet (not the 2 yellow ones under the seat or any on the dash). Now i use the power from the dash and jump into the power pin as well. THIS WAS ONLY NEEDED AFTER I JUMPED THE WRONG PIN...