Clicking noise

I was checking over the motor this morning and noticed a steady clicking noise, it's noticable from the bottom but it resonates through the whole bottom driveline, from the top it sounds like it comes from a valve cover, Is this noise the injectors or could it be Rod bearings?

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ORIGINAL: esaycho

I was checking over the motor this morning and noticed a steady clicking noise, it's noticable from the bottom but it resonates through the whole bottom driveline, from the top it sounds like it comes from a valve cover, Is this noise the injectors or could it be Rod bearings?

Give us some "HELP", what kind of vehicle, year model and mileage???
Mike

97 4.6 HSE i 153,xxx miles, sorry about that, also the valve cover gasket has had to be replaced twice, so i kno that oil has leaked for a while in between both changes

OK,
Could be a couple of things, broken exhaust stud or bad exhaust gasket, bad rocker arm, sticking lifter or flat spot on a cam lobe or bad oil pressure.
How mechanical are you can do you want to get walked thru some things to do and check?
Mike

I pretty much do all the work, i do kno that i also have an exhaust leak, walk through's would probably be nice,

At your mileage, not knowing what sort of maintanence it has had, and based on how rich these engines run, I would would make a couple of suggestions.
Consider do a engine flush using of the many engine flush products you can fins at the auto parts store. Do the flush, allow it to idle for 10 to 20 minutes, then change the oil and filter. If you have access to a mechanical oil pressure guage, I would then check and see what sort of oil pressure you have hot and cols, at idle and at 2000 RPMs. while idling, pull one plug wire at a time and see if the noise gets louder for that particular cylinder. Consider replacing both v/c gaskets inspecting and cleaning the rockers with a good sray cleaner. If you still don't see anything then it is time to pull the oil pan, make sure you have checked the oil pressure first, looking for any oil pick up tube blockage, which is common with these engines, here again, clean everything with spray cleaner make sure you get all the old sludge out, inspect real well before you buttom her up.
New oil, fire it up and listen, if it is still there, it is probably time to get serious and check the cam, rockers and lifters.
That's what it will take, in that order to find, clean u and fix an internal noise.
Good luck,
Mike

thanks and ur guess is as good as mine as what maintenece is done, there is not one service stamped in the passport to service but come tomorrow or next weekend i will do those things. Thanks i owe you one

Let me know how it turns out, hopefully it will be something easy and cheap. You will be surprised what just flushing the engine can do. I had a guy in Austrialla do my H.D. engine flush, emptying the crank case and using 6 qts. of ATF instead of the engine flush. Cleaned that old engine so he could eat out of it.
Mike

Hey guys, I just acquired a 94 RR Classic LWB with the 4.2, 168000 and immaculate except...I have the same kind of problem. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning...cold start...my oil light stays on longer than any other light at startup. The noise then fades a bit after about 30 seconds to a light tick. It is a tough one to nail down, but DM seems to know the proper order to go about it.
I'm thinking mine is going to be all of the above. Starting with new oil sending unit (check pressure and pump while out), get oil pump rebuild kit, drop oil pan, clean top end and hope the noise goes away. I'm hoping for the oil blockage.
Check the weight of the oil in it. You may just need to get something a little thicker. When I got mine; it had 10W40 in it. I put 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and 1 Quart of Lucas Engine Treatment and it has improved over the last 300 miles. I will drive it for a few more miles then do the above mentioned items.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Disco Mike

At your mileage, not knowing what sort of maintanence it has had, and based on how rich these engines run, I would would make a couple of suggestions.
Consider doing an engine flush using one of the many engine flush products you can find at the auto parts store. Do the flush, allow it to idle for 10 to 20 minutes, then change the oil and filter. If you have access to a mechanical oil pressure guage, I would then check and see what sort of oil pressure you have hot and cols, at idle and at 2000 RPMs. while idling, pull one plug wire at a time and see if the noise gets louder for that particular cylinder. Consider replacing both v/c gaskets inspecting and cleaning the rockers with a good sray cleaner. If you still don't see anything then it is time to pull the oil pan, make sure you have checked the oil pressure first, looking for any oil pick up tube blockage, which is common with these engines, here again, clean everything with spray cleaner make sure you get all the old sludge out, inspect real well before you buttom her up.
New oil, fire it up and listen, if it is still there, it is probably time to get serious and check the cam, rockers and lifters.
That's what it will take, in that order to find, clean u and fix an internal noise.
Good luck,
Mike

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ORIGINAL: moneypit37

Hey guys, I just acquired a 94 RR Classic LWB with the 4.2, 168000 and immaculate except...I have the same kind of problem. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning...cold start...my oil light stays on longer than any other light at startup. The noise then fades a bit after about 30 seconds to a light tick. It is a tough one to nail down, but DM seems to know the proper order to go about it.
I'm thinking mine is going to be all of the above. Starting with new oil sending unit (check pressure and pump while out), get oil pump rebuild kit, drop oil pan, clean top end and hope the noise goes away. I'm hoping for the oil blockage.
Check the weight of the oil in it. You may just need to get something a little thicker. When I got mine; it had 10W40 in it. I put 5 quarts of Castrol GTX 20W50 and 1 Quart of Lucas Engine Treatment and it has improved over the last 300 miles. I will drive it for a few more miles then do the above mentioned items.

With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
After all is done, if you still have the noise, pull the valve covers clean with carb cleaner and inspect the rockers.
Mike

Yup, It looks like everything on this one is original, so I will need to do a bit of de sludging.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.

quote:

ORIGINAL: moneypit37

Yup, It looks like everything on this one is original, so I will need to do a bit of de sludging.
The sensor thing is a personal habit. I replace all sending units when I get a vehicle. I would feel like a real idiot if my idiot lights fail to work properly.
You are right though, it is probably just normal build up. I own a 92 Jeep (Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee with 212000 miles on it, so I am very used to ticks along with oil pan and sump removal.
I will get a good engine flush and run it before the next oil change. I will also inspect the oil pump screen for blockage.
Mike, thanks so much for cutting through the costly process of replacing parts until the problem is solved!
I also have found that a $2 can of carb cleaner can do wonders for more than just your carb...
I will let you guys know what happens.

(Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee, I like that. I worked in a Jeep shop for years and never heard that.
Mike

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(Just Exchange Every Part) Cherokee, I like that. I worked in a Jeep shop for years and never heard that.
Mike

That or Just Empty Every Pocket.
In the last 30,000 miles I have put about $9000 in it. Below is a link to the list (list was a ballpark).
Here is the list:Money Pit 36
Oh ya and this weekend is a new clutch assembly. The trow out bearing/slave cylinder collar started to squeal the day I put for sale signs in her.
I need to sell this one to feed the RR.

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ORIGINAL: Disco Mike

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ORIGINAL: moneypit37

With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.

Engine and trans oil flushes are pure snake oil. Don't fall for it. Those who advocate it could post proof that it works. Waiting for the proof...

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With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.
After all is done, if you still have the noise, pull the valve covers clean with carb cleaner and inspect the rockers.
Mike

Hey guys, just put half a bottle of GUNK VALVEMEDIC BOTTLE PICTURE (a leave-in solution in a yellow 12oz bottle) I found at Advance Auto Parts. This cost me less than $5. It was a thin black liquid. I started the engine and the tick went away almost instantly! I can actually hear the intake and exhaust now (as well as a few new suspension noises)! It sounds like a gas motor instead of a diesel. I will run with this mix for a bit. I only have 500 miles on this oil change. I will let it go another 500 or so and give results. I will also watch to see how long it takes to get the oil pressure up.

I just had both my heads re-done and the mechanic told me that it is not uncommon for the hydralic lifters to get clogged with gunk, especailly if cheap oil is used. Luckly my turned out ok but he did strongly recommend using only valvoline 20w50 racing oil and stated that it's protection was far superior to any other oils. I had been using it already in my 5.0 Mustang and just started using it my wifes 01 300M and it no longer takes a second or so to fully oil up when first started in the mornings which is good considering it has a new crate motor with only 4k miles on it. Also consider running some K&W motor flush just before you change your oil that along with the valvemedic that someone else suggested to help flush out the oil sytem and prevent any blockage.

My oil light is now the first to go off when started. It used to take up to 20 seconds to go off even on warm starts before this treatment.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.
I like the Valvoline oils also. I use them in my Jeep. I usually use 1 quart of synthetic in the mix since my XJ runs hot, it's a stick and it sees some sustained high rpms.
25,000 miles on a Crate engine and not so much as a light tick! And that is amazing for a I6 4.0L.

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ORIGINAL: moneypit37
My oil light is now the first to go off when started. It used to take up to 20 seconds to go off even on warm starts before this treatment.
That valvemedic must have got something un-stuck.

Just an update. Mine is still quiet and from a cold start the oil light goes off in the 12 test period.
I only drive it about 20 miles a day so time will tell...
I change my oil at least every 3 months weather it needs it or not.
This is my first oil change and it'is still clear after about 600 miles and no loss as far as I can tell.
I will run for another week then put in the other half of the Gunk and give it another week and change the oil and filter again.
At that time I will also drop the pan, check the sump tube, change oil pressure sending unit, check oil pump, screen and springs, do cap, rotor, platinum plugs.
I am thouroughly amazed at how quickly this engine has turned around and has even increased milage by about 50% (from 10MPH to 15MPG).

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ORIGINAL: Bait

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ORIGINAL: Disco Mike

quote:

ORIGINAL: moneypit37

With your mileage, consider a good engine flush first, if that doesn't help, pull the pan clean with carb cleaner and inspect the pick up tube for blockage. If you still have a problem, do a mechanical oil pressuer test to verify the real numbers. I doubt you need a new sender, the noise is the proof of that.

Engine and trans oil flushes are pure snake oil. Don't fall for it. Those who advocate it could post proof that it works. Waiting for the proof...

Bait,
You are so far off base, I can't believe you as a moderator on this site have so little knowledge of this issue. Tell us why you feel flushing out an engine is a waste of time and what you base this on. Me I base mine suggestions on nearly 30 years working in the shops of dealerships as a service writer and manager.
Mike

It has been a few miles and all is still good...except...
Now that the engine is quiet i can hear a different tick.
It is just a tick at idle, but when you rev and let off; it makes a noise like a rock in a soda can.
As far as I and others helping can tell it is coming from the passenger side cat.
At first it just sounds like a tiny exhaust tick then it grows as she gets warmer!
Is it possible that some genius dropped a nut down there or is this a bad cat?
Does anyone know if you can get just one side done or does it have to be the whole Y pipe?
I have priced the Y pipe from a few places and none are wallet friendly.
ANY ideas are welcome!

To Flush Or Not To Flush That Is The Question.

I'm going to skip the chemical flush and just dismantle it. I have a hard time doing 90%. It has been draining/dripping since last night.
And since I ended up snapping the trackbar tie-rod ends and adjuster trying to get them out and the new parts won't be here until Monday...
I think a detailed cleaning is in order.
I have to say...I love this oil pan! It's square, flat and will even come out without a fight!
My Jeep is like solving a freaking rubic's cube! One way out and one way in!
I can tell by listening when I start it that the oil pickup is plugged.
When it starts you can hear the oil pump sucking until the goo in the sump filter pops.
Findings will be posted next week.

I have comfirmed the foriegn object in my exhaust.
It is a nut or something at the back end of the passenger cat.
I will be dropping the Y pipe later today.

Check this out!
I don't think a chemical flush will help this much!


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Edit 1:15 am
Wow! this thing is nasty!
Thats not just slime, it's glazed. I think I know where the idea for plastics came from.
A can of carb cleaner, a wire brush, a putty knife and a lot of scrubbing, but she's clean.
Easy enough to tell when you are done.
The stuff in the sump screen was like taffy. I had to scape it with a screw driver to get the chunks off, blow it both ways with carb cleaner, scrape again, blow again and then I used my fingertip to work the rest of it through the screen and gave it a final shot with the carb cleaner.
No wonder it couldn't get any oil.
I will pop the plugs on oil pump and look around in the morning while I degloss the bottom end of the block.
The valve covers come off in the morning also.
I will get the after pictures also.




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