Disconecting the ABS on a 94 Disco

I have a 94 disco and i think my abs sensors are not working... because intermittently when I press the breaks i gets some resistance and hear a zzz noise.. it will be like 1500 dollars to get the sensors fixed and I dont have that money. I was suggested to disconect the abs motor.. I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if anyone has any comments.

cheers

m

Are you sure it is the sensors? Did you do a check of the fault codes? I can send you a test procedure that I believe works on the 94 Disco, as I think you have a Wabco ABS similar to my 95. I would also do the usual stuff-bleed the brake system, check fluid level...

I am have the same problem with 95 Disco Anti lock light stays on. Today I removed both front wheels pull out sensors and cleaned and put thme back in. Still have Anti lock light on. Does anyone have a test procedure for the sensors. The brakes seem to work fine. How do you check fault codes?

if you go down to metal on metal with your brakes your sensors are bad.. but to pull the codes you need a computer

The brake pads are in good shape. Is there a test procedure to test sensors or someway of knowing which wheel is sending the signal?

You can test the sensors. Using a DVOM on the Ohms scale, disconnect the sensor and measure the resistance across the two pins. Wiggle the sensor leads whilst doing this. If you get an open reading, the sensor is defective.

You can also pull the blue test plug and jumper two of the connections and the ABS light will flash out the failure code sequence, telling you which sensor or line is having the problem.

Blue test Plug? Is it located under the driver side dash?

Do you have the code sequences and what they mean?

Well the flash codes if they work (ha ha) dont. pull the sensors and dont break the phillips screw from hell holding them on (P B blaster overnight) then pull out each one and see if deformed or demaged. Then as said earlier take an ohm meter test the 2 pins then test each one (should be araound 10 ohms of each other) then to the shield tube of either pin each one (stainless piece around the base around an 2 inches long, any continuity above 40 ohms is a problem (oil or water) compare them to each other . One last note when replacing them clean the s--t out of the signal wheel inside the hub (brake clean)

I finally figuired (through other posting) how read out and get the the code. I had changed the Brake Light Switch last week because i couldn't get out of PARK. The yesterday I found out that my BRAKE LIGHTS are always on. So I piut the OLD switch back in the the brake lights and shift lever work fine. The ANTI LOCK light is still on. I did the Blue Test Plu. and got 2-6 code which says.


Brake Light Switch failed or fault in wiring. But all works fine. Has to be a way to reset that ANTI LOCK light

I would put the "new" brake light switch back in, and make sure it is seated properly (no brake lights when at rest). I would then use the procedure to pull all of the codes and see what you have. You could have a sensor problem as well. If it is showing the brake light switch, then you go into hunt mode to figure out if you have a shorted wire.

As a side note, check to see if the cruise works with the two brake light switches (assuming you can start the vehicle). If it doesn't, you still have a problem with the brake light switch or wiring...

You can try to clean the contacts on the old brake light switch, but may not work.


With regard to the test plug:

On 94 and 95 it is under the drivers dash. Behind the crappy cardboard cover. The flash codes tell you which sensor to look at. You have to keep pulling the codes until there aren't anymore. I used it to pin down which sensor was causing me a headache. Then I pulled that sensor and measured resistance. Sensor came up bad. Replaced sensor and problem solved.

As a punishment for figuring it out, I had a different issue occur about a two monthes later. After going through some testing, I am leaning toward the collector ring being the problem. Have to pull it, clean it, and try it out.

You may want to get a copy of the electrical troubleshooting manual, as it lays out all of the systems.

Given the history of Lucas electrics, I expected the manual to be thicker...

It almost sounds like you have a vacuum leak on the booster for the brakes.