Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - Page 2

I'm in the same boat.  I'm glad someone made a post on this.

Questions:
(3) u joints at $39.00 ea. = $117.00 (Rover connection part# TVC100010A???)
(1) Precision 617 Ball Kit = $25.00

#1-The U-Joints sold at Rover Connection are what type? Are the precision PCN-344 acceptable?
#2-Where do I get the 617 Ball Kit?  Does Rover Connection have it also?  I don't see it.

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one last consideration... there's a seal on the input shaft to the front differential.  I discovered mine was leaking a bit when putting the shaft back in. 

#3-Any recommendations for finding that seal?  Might as well replace it while we're at it.


Thanks,
-u

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ORIGINAL: Darover

You can get a new one from Atlantic British for 399.99

Yes you can, the problem is, it also does not have grease fittings. If you want to buy new, buy a new shaft from Tom Woods for around $320 and his have all the grease fittings and is a better then factory drive shaft.

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ORIGINAL: marshman 442

Well.....I took the advice of the forum and avoided a disaster. I replaced all of my U joints and Flex rotor this weekend. (BTW - I had 168,000 miles on the original joints).....Not hard to do at all if your are a gear head and know your way around the car. My question is this....

Prior to pulling the drive shaft(s) I marked everything to ensure things went back the way they came out. But, during the process of the rebuild I lost a couple of the marks on the the matting surfaces between the drive shaft and the weight on the T-case. I am 50% sure I put it back the way it came out since the bolt pattern(s) only allow it to be off by 180 degrees......
Now I have some slight harmonic vibration at about 55 - 65 MPH only....nothing at lower or higher speeds. This vibration is ever so slight, but yet I don't want it to cause other damage or trouble down the line.

Is there an easy way to fix this w/o having a multiple of trial and error sessions of pulling the DS and putting it back until it goes away?

Did you install a new centering ball kit, if not that is your problem. If you did install a centering ball kit, when reassembled, di you test rotae the joionts to meake sure it moved freely?

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ORIGINAL: marshman 442


Is there an easy way to fix this w/o having a multiple of trial and error sessions of pulling the DS and putting it back until it goes away?

 
I doubt it, was the vib there before? If your TC has a CDL you could lock it and pull the shaft off and drive without it, that would eliminate the shaft. Def make sure that all the joints are nice and loose (but tight - you know what I mean).

I bought everything at Advance Auto for like $80. I think the joints were Neapco and the ball was precision maybe. They work fine. I never found the rubber boot around the ball though.