HELP! Runnig Rough Sluggish -- CEL - Page 2

Yes a vacum leak will cause rough idle, take your PCV hose down to NAPA and buy a couple of hose clamps and have them cut you a foot of vacum or gas hose, go home and cut it to length making sure that you dont kink it, also replace the hose coming from the valve cover to the throttle body.
Then clamp them so they make a tight seal. I did the same thing on my '97.
The idle control valve being bad will NOT cause a rough idle, it just wont idle when that goes bad.
Go to NAPA, spend the $5 and fix your trk.
If you slip the AutoZone guy reading your codes $10 he will clear them.
 

Alright thanks i will go to NAPA and do that. Thanks again i will keep you guys updated. Any know what the color of the spark plugs mean? Thanks

A lot of white, blistering means you are running too hot, yours look a little too white. Usually its from using the wrong plug, bad timing, sticking valves, poor cooling, etc... In your case it sounds like the vacuum leak might causing it too run too lean and therefore hot. So, change your plugs while you're at it.
 
Edit: Get your codes cleared and see if any others come up later. Bad O2 sensors, air flow sensors (any air/fuel metering) and such could make it run lean too but those would give a code.

Ok i brought a coder reader today and here are the codes:
P1193
P0300
P0308
P0304
P1316
P1314
 
I cleared the codes it still is doing the same thing i drove it around my block and let it idle for 3min since i cleared them and no CEL lights came on.

Should i drive the car more until the codes pop up again or will it damage my disco more?

Would my MAF cause it to run like this?

ok i drove the disco around for about 15mins today and it seems to be normal in first and even second gear, but when in 3rd gear it seems like it only has 5hp and does not want to go any were and i hear two pops it backfires twice through the intake in 3rd gear. The idle seems to be a little bit better also. And there are NO CEL'S popping up.  
 
 Any help will be much would be great. thanks.

So, do all of your hoses look good now? Does it run any different with the MAF unplugged?

All of the hoses look solid now and when i tried unplugging the MAF the idle was a lot better but i did not try driving it.

is it ok to try driving the car around with the MAF unplugged?

what does it mean when it runs better with the MAF unplugged?

You may want to call me, be glad to help you get it running better.
303-862-7680
Colorado any day before 8 pm

ok mike i am giving you a call...

quote:

ORIGINAL: JPC97DiscoSD

ok mike i am giving you a call...

Wow, what a thread killer. This was just getting interesting. Will we be posting any results after the aforementioned phone call(s)?

Ya i will def keep this thread updated because after searching all i see are problem threads that never tell how they fixed there problem.

quote:

ORIGINAL: JPC97DiscoSD

Ya i will def keep this thread updated because after searching all i see are problem threads that never tell how they fixed there problem.

 
10-4..............I've noticed this also.............definately defeats the purpose of a repair forum.
 

Cliff notes: Cleared the CEL - no return : Did a Compression test - Low compression on cyl 4.
I don't have the compression numbers off hand, but cyl 4 was significantly lower than the other cyls.
 
Ok Disco Mike, thanks for the advise over the phone, before I go about repairing the cracked exhaust manifold you suggested (cyls 2 4 6 8 manifold) I figured since I am fortunate enough to have a Euro garage down the street, it wouldn't hurt to get a visual opinion of what the problem is on my truck.

So......After messing around for a while and not making any progress, I took my truck to the independent Euro mechanics so they can have a quick look over and give me their opinion, thank God they are around the corner from me minutes away and I was able to drive there. So I gave it a shot, the compression test cost me a few bucks even though I could have done it myself. In a sense I am glad I am getting to the bottom of this.

So the next day, I get a call and they ran a compression test which revealed low compression on Cyl. 4. So I have an internal problem now. The truck runs and drives, it is just really sluggish at around 2 - 3.5 rpms. This problem seems to have happened overnight and I am thinking the problem is in the heads, maybe stuck valves. I don't want to know what it looks like under there, maybe the previous owner ran 87 octane, and it was just a matter of time before the damage was done.

Is there any way I can clean the valves with an additive or something before I start digging deep into the engine and my pockets, should I change the oil and add some compression booster or some kind of engine treatment. I ran a can of seafoam thrrough the intake, should I do a can in the crankcase? Let me know what you guys think. I do have a crack on my exhaust manifold by cyl.4 - would that cause the problem, when it is running slugging it backfires through the intake and pops? It feels like I am running without a spark plug. Although it starts right up smoothly. Thanks for the input in advance.

OK I flushed the engine, changed the oil with Castrol Syntec 5W/30 along with a quart of compression booster additive to thicken the oil and let the truck run for a bit and I noticed than my CEL came on here are the codes it threw:

P1316
P1204 Pd
P0204 Pd
P1193 Pd
 
Also, everytime I run the car the problem seems to get worse and worse. I noticed it was puffing out some bright white smoke after I changed the oil and filter. It almost seems like the head gasket has failed, but I don't know, I haven't had any coolant loss issues or signs of leaks, the truck never overheats. There was a white looking filmy residue on the inside of my oil cap and the used oil had a scent of gasoline in it.  Would a bad head gasket cause compression loss and cause the truck to run terrible? I am starting to think my problem is either a bad head gasket(s) or the heads need to be redone, maybe a stuck valve is causing all this... I doubt that the bottom end is the problem, it doesn't burn any oil or anything. It runs beautiful on a cold start and then after 2 mins its all downhill. What should I look for guys?

has anyone every had this combo of codes?
P1316
P1204 Pd
P0204 Pd
P1193 Pd

ANY ONE LOL!??

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Did you look up your codes? You can check here: http://www.iequus.com/support/obd2_definitions.php
 
They all point to a misfire in cylinder 4 due to an open injector circuit. The O2 code might have gotten thrown in because of the misfire. I'm no good at interpreting these things, but it sounds like you have an electrical problem at that injector. I don't know if the low compression would cause this too.... 

So after having this problem for about a month i have only put about $5-10 in gas in the tank never filling it past 1/4 of a tank. So today i put $20 of v-power in and it runs like its old self again pretty much perfect. Could this be my fuel pump? I thought they worked or didn't work? i will change the fuel filter.
 
Basically the car ran like crap and idled like crap all the way to the gas station and after i put $20 in gas in it ran pretty much perfect. hm......

Odd. Did you fill with the same type of gas? Maybe you have a lot of sludge built up in the bottom of your tank and you were starving the engine for fuel sucking it in. Make sure you open the filter up and see what is in it.

Also, maybe a problem with the fuel pump pick-up? I'm not sure how it's designed, should be easy to pull out. Check it out.

I have only used premium since i had it but, who know what the previous owner was using... I can not rember the last place i filled up. I have been driving it and letting it idle for about 40 min. and its still running good. i am still gonna change the filter i wanna see what in there. it is behind the passenger side tire correct?