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Missing/Loss of Power '97 Disco

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Amocat00
2/5/2008 7:17:30 AM
I just bought this thing like two months ago.  I've been a Toyota guy up until now, so I don't know much about Land Rovers.
 
About a week ago, I noticed it started "missing" like it was losing power, almost like it was running out of gas.  It didn't do it all the time though.  Well, it's getting worse  The check engine light came on.  And, it's definitely not at full power and sputtering constantly.  A guy told me it could be the MAP Sensor.  But, that's not all.  If it sits for more than a day without being started, the battery is going dead.  I think something is draining the battery, maybe the starter or alternator.  I guess I just have to take it to a shop to find out.
 
Back to the MAP Sensor:  It's $700 from my local LR dealer.  Anybody know where I might find a used one online or in the Tampa area? 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 
Shawn
Disco Mike
2/5/2008 7:53:51 AM
Before you go any further, go get your codes read or we will all just waist each others time trying to help you. Get back to us with the codes and NO MAF's till we can see what is wrong.
Amocat00
2/5/2008 8:35:54 AM
Ok, thanks for the heads-up.  I just talked to another guy from a Florida LR forum, he told me the same thing and gave me info. on who he uses here in the Tampa area.  That'll have to wait until tomorrow, as I have to be at work at 1:30.
Amocat00
2/6/2008 12:35:56 PM
Still didn't have time to go get the codes today.  Will have to do it first thing in the morning.

On another note: When I bought the thing, the backlights for the shifter (P, N, R, 3, 2, 1 or whatever) didn't work. So, I told them and they had it fixed....NOW they stay on even when the car is off, and my heat/ac fan and cruise control back light will stay on when the car is off unless I turn the controls to off. Seems like the deuschbag wired them wrong. The garage that did the work is an hour away...

AND, I just noticed as I was getting gas:
A.) the rubber hose connecting the filler nozzle to the tank is cracked and leaking.
B.) when my gas gauge is reading empty, it only takes 17 gallons to fill up a 23.4 gallon tank...
Disco Mike
2/6/2008 1:11:46 PM
Go out this even to your local auto parts store and get your codes read, takes all of a few minutes.
By the way, that cracked hose will be throw a code also.
Amocat00
2/6/2008 2:32:28 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: Disco Mike

Go out this even to your local auto parts store and get your codes read, takes all of a few minutes.
By the way, that cracked hose will be throw a code also.

 
Just got back from there.  The codes are:
P0300 - Random cyl. misfire
P0308 - Cyl. 8 misfire
P1316 - Manufacturer Control Ignition misfire
P1313 - Engine misfire
 
Basically, I think it might just be the spark plugs and/or wires.  So, I'll probably start there, unless you all think something different.  I did get electrical parts cleaner for the MAF sensor, I'll do that anyway.
 
I've also already fixed the cracked rubber hose for now, see how it holds up.  I guess it's either an overflow or air escape hose???  I've never looked closely at that before.
Amocat00
2/6/2008 7:50:41 PM
Definitely need to change the plugs and wires, too. I learned something new today, how to check if your plugs and/or wires are going bad: Put the vehicle in a completely dark place with the hood up and the engine running. Now, look for streaks of electricity/spark running along the outsides of the plug wires. I could see at least three different streaks running parallel to the spark plug wires. It's pretty interesting.
Disco Mike
2/7/2008 6:49:26 AM

quote:

ORIGINAL: Amocat00

quote:

ORIGINAL: Disco Mike

Go out this even to your local auto parts store and get your codes read, takes all of a few minutes.
By the way, that cracked hose will be throw a code also.


Just got back from there. The codes are:
P0300 - Random cyl. misfire
P0308 - Cyl. 8 misfire
P1316 - Manufacturer Control Ignition misfire
P1313 - Engine misfire

Basically, I think it might just be the spark plugs and/or wires. So, I'll probably start there, unless you all think something different. I did get electrical parts cleaner for the MAF sensor, I'll do that anyway.

I've also already fixed the cracked rubber hose for now, see how it holds up. I guess it's either an overflow or air escape hose??? I've never looked closely at that before.

What year is the truck, how many miles on it?
Don't do anything to the MAF, you have no indicating codes showing a MAF problem and if you try to clean it, you will most likely kill it.
As for plugs and wires, OH yes, you need them.
I would suggest you order a set of 8mm Magnecor wires.
You might want to call me and let's talk about getting your truck healthy.
303-862-7680
Colorado before 8 pm.
okdiscoguy
2/7/2008 3:55:02 PM
X2 on the MAF, it will kill it. They are more sturdy than the D2, but at $600 a pop, why mess with it if you don't have codes for it?
 
Get some 8MM Magnacor wires and a set of Bosch +4 plugs. You will like the drive. This combo has been tested and proven to make the Rovers really happy.
 
www.lrrforums.com in the store, or www.apexperformance.net for the wires. Don't get OEM wires, or you will have the same problem in a year. I did that when I first got my truck and they were bad in a year. The Magnacors have a lifetime warranty as well....
Amocat00
2/7/2008 5:55:40 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: okdiscoguy

X2 on the MAF, it will kill it. They are more sturdy than the D2, but at $600 a pop, why mess with it if you don't have codes for it?

Get some 8MM Magnacor wires and a set of Bosch +4 plugs. You will like the drive. This combo has been tested and proven to make the Rovers really happy.

www.lrrforums.com in the store, or www.apexperformance.net for the wires. Don't get OEM wires, or you will have the same problem in a year. I did that when I first got my truck and they were bad in a year. The Magnacors have a lifetime warranty as well....

 
Ok, got it.  I'll get wires and plugs and then go from there.  Where on www.lrrforums.com is the store?
gtlux
2/11/2008 5:05:34 PM
I have a 98' Disco that had the same trouble.  I replaced the ignition coils and all the wires.  It still continued to sputter.  A very good mechanic finally found that I had a cracked driveshaft speed sensor.  I fixed that and everything is running great again.  My Disco has 208,000 miles on it.  Still going strong.
Hope this helps.
                       Gtlux
Amocat00
2/13/2008 4:34:24 PM
Replaced the old Autolite plugs with Bosch +4's today and ordered new wires, should be in tomorrow. Took it for a test drive and it seemed back to normal, even without the wires. Had to add power steering fluid, though, was making "that" sound when I drove it after replacing the plugs. And, my battery is still going dead when it sits overnight. I had Advance Auto Parts check the battery, is fine, and the alternator. It is only getting 45 peak amps. According to them, it's supposed to be 100 peak amps. Any ideas on where to get an alternator and how much?

Thanks,

~S
Amocat00
2/14/2008 1:12:00 PM
Replaced the wires today.  Also, found out my problem is probably NOT the alternator.  Auto Zone guy thinks it's a combination of the battery going bad and a short in the wiring.
cold_surfer
2/21/2008 8:57:55 AM
RTV blue or black silicone ($4 at Walmart) on the cap and coil (all wire connections). It helps as much as +4 plugs. no missing.

I'll try the +4 plugs as well next time -- I used Champion Truck plugs and they did the trick for the money. I special ordered HD 8MM bosch wires at autozone for less than $50 (a few years back, granted) and they do very well too. I think it's a universal set 8MM with good sized boots and no crimping/cutting required.
cold_surfer
2/21/2008 9:04:26 AM
For $4 I got a twist battery disconnect for the negative side. It loses all the radio codes and stations but it has helped resolve our drain problem when the rover sits. My son even left the lights on for 3 hours (park lamps) the other day and it started. Those slow drains are murder.

Look on ebay for an alternator. Word to the wise -- I went through 3 (THREE) rebuilt starters before I got one that worked for the RRC. Actually I think that one was a new/discounted unit, so don't trust a rebuilt rover part as a rule.

If you have air suspension I would not put a disconnect in place -- worth the $400 for the highend unit.
Amocat00
2/23/2008 6:43:47 AM
quote:

ORIGINAL: cold_surfer

For $4 I got a twist battery disconnect for the negative side. It loses all the radio codes and stations but it has helped resolve our drain problem when the rover sits. My son even left the lights on for 3 hours (park lamps) the other day and it started. Those slow drains are murder.

Look on ebay for an alternator. Word to the wise -- I went through 3 (THREE) rebuilt starters before I got one that worked for the RRC. Actually I think that one was a new/discounted unit, so don't trust a rebuilt rover part as a rule.

If you have air suspension I would not put a disconnect in place -- worth the $400 for the highend unit.

 
I'm just going to get it to a LR specialist next week for the short in the electrical.  I think once that's fixed, I should be about good to go.  I had the alternator checked at an AAP's and according to them, the alternator is fine.  I hope it's JUST the short from the mechanic wiring the interior lights wrong.  Air suspension?  I didn't even know that was an option in the Disco.  Mine doesn't have it, that I'm aware of...
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