Original driveshaft longivity ???

Guys, what would you guys say is the mileage where changing the front driveshaft U-joints becomes critical ???
 
Causey LR service manager says that up here in Canada, since we live in a cold climate for some 5-6 months a year, driveshaft failure is basically unheard of, and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

There may be a little truth to that. In the cold, the bearing with their limited grease may last a little longer. My first set were fried at about 36,000 miles, luckily I caught them before they failed. Worse case, if they fail you can loose your tranny and damage the t/case. It is not worth waiting for them to fail, I would rather pay $150 and have them replaced then $7000 or more when the tranny and t/case get involved.

All right, could you tell me exactly which parts to order at my local NAPA store ???
 
Might as well do this now I guess.

Percisson 334 u-joints or the 1-0005 u-joints from Auto Quest.

perhaps a centering ball kit too?

Will we hear noises prior to them breaking down? Drumming/squealing/clunks etc? steering vibration?
Alan

Mine was in Vermont it's whole life (I assume its the original one) - that's almost Canada. I just changed it at 88k miles. I had a very slight vibration in the steering wheel at about 60 mph or so, that's it. When I took it off I could feel sort of a dead spot when twisting a bearing. It probably had a few thousand miles left in it at least. I don't doubt that highway driving in Canada would be a lot easier on them than stop and go traffic in 100 deg. heat with the exhaust baking on them. I wouldn't wait to you hear noises coming fom them though, you probably won't.

Well, I'll  get the parts, and plan on doing the work sometime after the holidays probably. As I said, I'd rather be premature, than too late.

Hey Darover, unless you've replaced a lot of u-joints and think it's fun, I'd strongly recommend just removing the driveshaft and having a driveline shop take care of the u-joints. They will also balance it for you. I'm having mine done soon and they quoted me $180 incl parts, labor and balancing. Take it from someone who's done a few u-joints in the past, $180 is not too much, and much less painless. To do it comfortably yourself you'll need a hydraulic press. Next best thing is a good solid bench vice and large sockets. A driveway mechanic would have to use a G-clamp and sockets...oh, and there's a good chance you'll eff them up and maybe loose some needle bearings...then you'll have to buy more UJs and start over
 
Happy holidays!

I agree with Fonzie. That double cardan can be a booger.

Well, I was quoted a whole lot more than that here.  I'm probably just going to replace both front and back and go with a long spline etc, but I may end up lifting more in the future.

ok, speaking on something i know something about,(my front driveshaft broke last week), i was told when i got my land rover, they all clunk alot so thats normal, well mine broke. when it starts to go, there will be a clunk going into drive, a clunk going into reverse, and usually nothing going into park. when you let off the gas, it will start to vibrate and when you get back into the gas, it will be ok again. with mine, i came to a red light and it turned green before i could come to a stop, i got back into the gas and it started with a wop-wop-wop every revolution of the shaft. i have a 95 disco 1 and it has 133000 on it.  p.s. the transfer case is frozen, just found that out too so after i get it working again, ill go through the positions to make sure they stay lubed and free. the vehicle sat for a year before i got it. the linkage just froze. learn by my mistake, and keep those transfer cases free and do not let the linkage freeze from un-usage.  right mike?

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ORIGINAL: pennystockart

ok, speaking on something i know something about,(my front driveshaft broke last week), i was told when i got my land rover, they all clunk alot so thats normal, well mine broke. when it starts to go, there will be a clunk going into drive, a clunk going into reverse, and usually nothing going into park. when you let off the gas, it will start to vibrate and when you get back into the gas, it will be ok again. with mine, i came to a red light and it turned green before i could come to a stop, i got back into the gas and it started with a wop-wop-wop every revolution of the shaft. i have a 95 disco 1 and it has 133000 on it.  p.s. the transfer case is frozen, just found that out too so after i get it working again, ill go through the positions to make sure they stay lubed and free. the vehicle sat for a year before i got it. the linkage just froze. learn by my mistake, and keep those transfer cases free and do not let the linkage freeze from un-usage.  right mike?

 
Approximately how many miles from when you first noticed the symptoms to when the driveshaft failed?
 
Good tip on the T-case shifter! I haven't used mine since my pre-purchase test drive about 6wks ago, and I noticed that it was really stiff and notchy but otherwise worked fine. I have a fair idea the previous owner was a female who's idea of off-roading was jumping curbs and wheel stops at the mall parking lot .
 
I'm gonna lube the linkage before I head for the muddy/snowy mountains here pretty soon.

I used Precision 344 u-joints. I grease them every other oil change. Lube it or lose it.
 
Willie