Range rover calssic performance

Hey everybody, I am new to this site. I have a 1992 Range rover county, I am looking to increase the performance (acceleration) a little bit. Does anybody have any ideas? I am also thinking about purchasing the borla muffler for the Range rover... Does anybody know how it sounds or have any reviews of the product?

Thank you

How many miles on your truck, what sort of maintance do you do on it, what octane gas do you use?
Have you done anything so far to try and improve your mileage?
What sort of gas mileage do you get now?
Get back to me.
Mike

I don't know about samjm but the engine (out of a 1995 defender) in my 1991 RR Classic has about 70k miles on it and the truck has about 160k miles. I do all my own maintenance and other than a 3 inch lift and the defender engine the truck is stock. I use regular unleaded and get between 12 and 14 mpg. I'm really not interested in increasing power but would like to know any way I could set up my truck to get better gas mileage. I plan on keeping this truck forever so even a substantial investment now which would pay off in the long run would be considered. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dan

I have the Borla Exhaust on my 95 Disco w/ a 3.9. It is kind of loud and the drone is really bad at 50 - 65 mph, I am probably going to be adding a resonator to quiet it down some.

My daily driver is a 1991 Classic with 140K on the clock. It has stock exhaust, a K&N cone airfilter (which means I removed the stock air cleaner housing), Royal Purple synthetics (engine and differentials), Redline synthetic ATF, Michelin Syncro stock-size tires. It gets 16-17 mpg at a steady 75 mph on the highway, and horrible mileage around town. More power would be nice, but I am of the opinion that at a minimum--it would require a camshaft/lifter set and changing out the Y-pipe with high-flo cats and a less restrictive muffler. At this mileage, I am more prone towards building a 4-bolt main 4.0 litre with a little massage on the heads, a Crane cam grind I have used on TR-8 motors in the past, a Edlebrock timing chain/sprocket set, and Buick pistons that yield a little higher compression ratio. This combination resulted in 270 h.p. which is obviously much better than the 185 this truck had 15 years ago.

Mike McLaughlin
www.eurotekapg.com

In Reply to Geoman...

I'm confused..

What engine are you getting 16-17mpg out of and what state of tune is this engine?

Did you notice a power or mpg diffrence when you installed the K&N?

Thanks,
Dan

I have the bone-stock 3.9 litre. The only change in breathing mods---is the K&N filter. Now-- I do believe that the reason I am getting the highway gas mileage I am is partially due to the synthetics and the Michelins Synchros-- which supposedly have less rolling resistance than other brands. With that said, the Michelins are really more of a road tire and would not perform that well in mud or loose earth on steep inclines.

It's hard to say if the mileage or power increased a noticeable amount when I put the K&N on-- as I fitted the filter at the same time I changed all the fluids over to synthetic. It seems to run up in rpm a little smoother than before. However-- I live at sea level, and when I drove the 22 hours back to Colorado for Christmas---over the mountain ranges-- I was frustrated that I had to be in the far right slow lane with flashers going---right behind the Semi's--- because at 12,000 feet I didn't have enough power to pull these inclines at any more than 35-45 mph in some cases.

That's why when the time is right I will build a 4.0 litre with more agressive cam timing and higher compression ratio. Thing is-- here in California one has to be very careful not to go too far or you cannot get through smog.

Geoman

www.eurotekapg.com

quote:

ORIGINAL: dinandan

I don't know about samjm but the engine (out of a 1995 defender) in my 1991 RR Classic has about 70k miles on it and the truck has about 160k miles. I do all my own maintenance and other than a 3 inch lift and the defender engine the truck is stock. I use regular unleaded and get between 12 and 14 mpg. I'm really not interested in increasing power but would like to know any way I could set up my truck to get better gas mileage. I plan on keeping this truck forever so even a substantial investment now which would pay off in the long run would be considered. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dan

Cheapest way to get better gas mileage would be to start using good gas, that could over a couple of tankfulls give you up to 2 more MPG.
Also consider replacing your plugs and wires, O2 sensors and decarboning the engine after all that regular gas. You should also consider replacing your coil to a new hotter coil to go with the new wires, 8mm Magnacor wires, and Bosh Platium Plus 4's plugs.
It will all make a difference.
Mike

Hey Mike--

I've seen you mention a hotter ignition coil on a couple of posts. Could you share with us exactly what brand and part number it is that you've had success with?

Or are you saying to just replace your old one with a new stock coil?

Thanks,
Geoman

quote:

ORIGINAL: geoman

Hey Mike--

I've seen you mention a hotter ignition coil on a couple of posts. Could you share with us exactly what brand and part number it is that you've had success with?

Or are you saying to just replace your old one with a new stock coil?

Thanks,
Geoman

OK, first of all, my truck has coil packs, not a single coil, but in the past for me and for a number of my friends with the old style coils we have found that factory coils wear out and have lots less voltage then some of the new up graded performance coils you can buy at the auto parts stores. Of course, right now I am going thru a mind fart and can't think of any brand name specifically, but parts store can give you some ideas.
What you are trying to get from a coil switch is more voltage thru better wires to better burning plugs that will creat more spark, hence more power thru better fuel burning.
Give you an example, my 99 D2 with a coil pack and factory wires will put out about 37,000 volts to the plugs, switching to 8mm Magnacor wires, I can get nearly 55,000 volts thru to a set of Bosh Platium Plus 4's that with the extra voltage make a lot more low end torque for my truck.
So, if you go this way, you don't have to get real crazy and buy the top of the line coil, but you can get some with 50 to 100% more punch, then go for thee wires and plugs and look out.
Mike

I think I may be replacing that coil sooner than I thought. Today I pushed my rover to 4500 rpm where it cut out. It acts as thought there is a rev limiter. The truck works fine throughout the rev range as long as its under 4500rpm. I've towed light trailers and not noticed this before. Could a bad coil casue this and bad gas mileage? (12-14mpg)
Thanks for the help guys. Oh, And if it makes any diffrence it's a 1991 RR Classic with a 1995 Defender 3.9L engine.
Dan