RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.

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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question.

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RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/6/2007 10:33:26 AM

97DISCOIDAHO

Posts: 77
Joined: 7/24/2006
Status: offline

I was going to buy some type of engine flush and do that before pulling the heads. Will the ATF work best or is there a product made for it? Can you explain how to do it with ATF again? I know you just idle for about 30 mins but do you completely replace the oil with ATF or do you just add a quart or two? I ordered an oil pan gasket and oil pan bolt set. I'll probably just take all the greasy parts with me to the machine shop and have them cleaned. Thanks again.

(in reply to Disco Mike)

Post #: 11

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/6/2007 11:10:03 AM

Disco Mike

Posts: 10533
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline

6 qts. of ATF will out perform a 1 qt. bottle of engine flush, does a great job and can't hurt the engine. Just drain your engine leaving the old oil filter add the ATF and let it idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and you're done.
Mike

< Message edited by Disco Mike -- 3/7/2007 10:19:19 AM >

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 12

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/6/2007 1:48:24 PM

97DISCOIDAHO

Posts: 77
Joined: 7/24/2006
Status: offline

I'm thinking about going one more step and rolling in some new rod bearings. I listened to the motor and I can hear a slight lower end knock. I'm guessing it's the rod bearings but should I do main bearings as well? What is the most common failure as far as those go on these motors? I'd rather get them taken care of now rather than spin one and have a mess later. What do you think?

(in reply to Disco Mike)

Post #: 13

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/6/2007 1:59:03 PM

98roverguy

Posts: 634
Joined: 8/22/2006
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: 97DISCOIDAHO

I took it in and had the pressure test and block test done. It failed both... they said it was the #8 cylinder with the problem. I have ordered the gasket kit, new head bolts, and serpentine belt (mine is looking a little tired). I called the machine shop I've always used and he is saying best case senario I'll be about $100 to resurface the heads and worst case about $400 to rebuild the heads (for the pair). Is that a good price?

The mechanic I took it to for the tests is trying to tell me the head is cracked and that I have a bottom end knock (which I've never heard). These mechanics are a joke... they got all mad when I told them I just wanted to take the truck. They wanted to sell my a new engine! Whatever!!

Any advice on this job would be greatly appreciated... I'ts been about 12 years since I built an engine so I'm a bit rusty. I found the torque specs on atlanticbritish.com (that's where I ordered the parts). I've heard it's best to number the placement and direction of the push rods. Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks in advance,

Erick

Ya keep your rods in order and proper direction or you may get a ticking noise. Use some carboard and punch some holes in them and mark whats what. Inspect all your parts and if I were you, at that mileage replace the aforementioned parts as well. It will ease your mind for the future knowing your have a ton of new parts under the hood and plus you'll be down there so knock em out now. The price that was quoted from your machinist is dead on. Mine was just over $200 as I had a bent exhaust valve. Note: valves run around $100 a piece and can only be purchased from the dealer. Anyway, Erick I just did my heads about 2 months ago. I know them like the back of my hand now. PM me if you need any help along the way. It's not too bad a job at all. Good luck!

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 14

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/6/2007 2:03:40 PM

98roverguy

Posts: 634
Joined: 8/22/2006
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: 97DISCOIDAHO

I'm thinking about going one more step and rolling in some new rod bearings. I listened to the motor and I can hear a slight lower end knock. I'm guessing it's the rod bearings but should I do main bearings as well? What is the most common failure as far as those go on these motors? I'd rather get them taken care of now rather than spin one and have a mess later. What do you think?

Once you fluch with atf the knocking may go away, wait and see.

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 15

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/7/2007 10:03:52 AM

97DISCOIDAHO

Posts: 77
Joined: 7/24/2006
Status: offline

Does anyone have the torque specs for the rod bolts and the main bolts? Also, any other torque specs would be great... I have the specs for the heads but I will also be removing everything on top to get to them. A list of torque specs would be great if anyone has it. Thanks.

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 16

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/7/2007 10:09:03 AM

97DISCOIDAHO

Posts: 77
Joined: 7/24/2006
Status: offline

98roverguy... I didn't see your post about waiting till after the ATF flush for the rod bearings. My original plan was to pull them all out and take them to the machine shop to be measured. I wonder what would be causing a knock that an ATF flush could fix?

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 17

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/7/2007 10:22:39 AM

Disco Mike

Posts: 10533
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline

As rich as rover engine run, they build up alot of sludge and varnish, restricting oil flow where it is needed. It is always worth a try and in the worst case and there is no change, you will have a much cleaner engine to work on.
Mike

(in reply to 97DISCOIDAHO)

Post #: 18

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/7/2007 11:41:51 AM

D2 2003

Posts: 41
Joined: 2/23/2007
Status: offline

For the rod bearings, if you go to the trouble to pull them out, you may be better off to just replace them.

Also for measuring, the way I've always done it is "in place" with the plastigauge stuff. I don't think you can take them somewhere to be measured -- they are measured using the actual rods and crank. You bolt it all up with the plastigauge, disassemble again, and then read the clearance using the width of the squashed plastigauge.

Same with the mains.

Torque instructions (for a D2 at least) rods: lightly oil bolts, torque to 15 ft. lb., then turn a further 80 degrees.

Mains: there's a two stage sequence of torque and the main caps have to be tightened in a specified order (20 bolts total). There's also a couple pages on dealing with the main seals. If you're going to do the mains, it would likely be worth it to get ahold of a shop manual.

< Message edited by D2 2003 -- 3/7/2007 11:50:40 AM >

(in reply to Disco Mike)

Post #: 19

RE: Return of the sloshing under dash question. - 3/7/2007 2:01:04 PM

97DISCOIDAHO

Posts: 77
Joined: 7/24/2006
Status: offline

Hi,

I will definately be doing an ATF engine flush. I am driving it this week to and from work (10 miles each way). I added some engine flush yesterday and Friday night I will flush it with ATF before starting the head job on Sat morning. I plan on throwing a cheap filter on for the ATF flush just because I don't know what this filter is going through with the engine flush. I now have my fingers crossed that the knock will go away... thanks for the advice! I purchased a digital downlad of the RAVE manual and now have all the torque specs. If anyone needs them I will post them with this message. Thanks again.

Crankshaft pulley bolt 270 Nm ........................ 200lbf.ft
Camshaft gear bolt 50 Nm .......................... 37lbf.ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts 25 Nm .................... 18lbf.ft
Rocker cover bolts: +
Stage 1 4 Nm .................................. 3lbf.ft
Stage 2 8 Nm .................................. 6lbf.ft
Stage 3 - re-torque to: 8 Nm ....................... 6lbf.ft
Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts 38 Nm .............. 28lbf.ft
Cylinder head bolts: +*
Stage 1 20 Nm ................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Then 90 degrees .................................
Stage 3 Further 90 degrees .................................
Lifting eye to cylinder head bolts 40 Nm ................ 30lbf.ft
Connecting rod bolts:
Stage 1 20 Nm .................................. 15lbf.ft
Stage 2 Further 80 degrees ..................................
Main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 1 to 8: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 72 Nm ....................... 53lbf.ft
Rear main bearing cap bolts - Nos. 9 and 10: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 92 Nm ....................... 68lbf.ft
Main bearing cap side bolts - Nos. 11 to 20: +
Stage 1 - initial torque 13.5 Nm ....................... 10lbf.ft
Stage 2 - final torque 45 Nm ....................... 33lbf.ft
Flywheel bolts 80 Nm .............................. 59lbf.ft
Drive plate assembly bolts 45 Nm ..................... 33lbf.ft
Drive plate hub aligner to crankshaft socket head
cap screws 85 Nm ................................. 63lbf.ft
Oil sump drain plug 45 Nm .......................... 33lbf.ft
Oil sump nuts and bolts + 23 Nm ..................... 17lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate screws ** 4 Nm ................. 3lbf.ft
Oil pump cover plate bolt ** 8 Nm .................... 6lbf.ft
Spark plugs 20 Nm ................................ 15lbf.ft
Timing cover/coolant pump to cylinder block bolts
+22Nm ........................................ 16lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe to oil pump bolts 8 Nm ................ 6lbf.ft
Oil pick-up pipe nut 24 Nm .......................... 18lbf.ft
Knock sensors to cylinder block 16 Nm ................ 12lbf.ft
Camshaft sensor to timing cover bolt 8 Nm ............ 6lbf.ft
Crankshaft position sensor bolts 6 Nm ................ 4lbf.ft
Oil cooler connections 15 Nm ........................ 11lbf.ft
+ Tighten in sequence
* Lightly oil threads prior to assembly.
** Coat threads with Loctite 222 prior to
assembly.

(in reply to D2 2003)

Post #: 20