1996 Range rover repairs update (Full Version)

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1996 Range rover repairs update


  

mrpcar -> 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/20/2007 11:28:11 AM)

A month after buying an used 1996 RR 4.6 HSE with 44k miles (My first Range Rover) I am discovering more and more little problems here and there.  So far it has been an interesting learning experience with RR, to me by far it is a much easier car to work on compared to the Porsches that I have worked on the past and with all the available information and knowledge base on the internet it has been quit helpful in diagnosing and repair the problems that I am experiencing.

First day that I purchased the truck the EAS went from soft fault to hard fault while I was on the freeway driving 70 mph.

So after some research the first mod I made was installing the M.A.R.S. - Manual Air Recovery System kit, I also set the EAS on manual mode (jumped the wire on the EAS ECU connector), and have been manually pumping air into the each individual air bags to get the ride height I want. 

After pumping up the air bags manually I discovered that overnight the right rear corner will fall to bump stop, so maybe a tell tail sign why the system went to soft fault in the first place.  The rest of the corners also suffers slow leaks which will eventually lower the car to bump stop. 

So I ordered 4 new air bags units from Arnotts, in attempt to resolve the leaking air bars.  Both of the rear air bags were badly worn out, cracks all along the bottom bag seat.  Removing the worn air bags as assembly was a 5 minute job, but installing the new bags was a major battle.  Since on the new bag before it is folded to the seat it is a lot longer than the worn ones, there were limited space and travel from the suspension to allow the fitment.  It took some bending, twisting of the bags in order to get it is place, and then it was manually pumping up the bags slowly and push and shove to get it to fold corrected.  (Glad I have the MARS kit installed, which made the process a lot easier to manipulate)

Here is a picture of the (from left to right) new air bag, old air bag, and new air bag on the mounting seats

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/airspringtemp/DSC03477.JPG[/image] 
I also found the truck to pull to the left at highway speeds and a constant vibration at above 70 mph speeds.  So after looking around I found that the left side ball joints and tie rod ends are all busted.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/controlarm/controlarmtemp/DSC03447.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/controlarm/controlarmtemp/DSC03448.JPG[/image]


so the next step is to replace the front air bags and the worn out ball joints and tie rods. 

To replace the ball joints I needed the ball joint removal tool... so more ordering of tools...
[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03481.JPG[/image]

Once I finish replacing the front air bags I will take the truck to the stealer and have them reset the EAS system.  So far I can't find anyone in the S. California with a Rovercom to help me reset the system.  Anyone?????

While I was replacing the rear air bars I also noticed corroded spots all over the exhaust system, I was shocked to see this level of corrosion from a S California car and the lack of stainless steel material in this price range of car.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03483.JPG[/image] 

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03485.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03484.JPG[/image]

So off the exhaust system, I started the repair with the final muffler section first.  There were 3 really bad spots on them. 

I took a same diameter stainless pipe and cut a section of pipe off with a plasma cutter and then used the section as patches to cover up the blown open pipe and badly corroded areas.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03486.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03488.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03496.JPG[/image]
Here are where all the patch works are done.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03493.JPG[/image]
Next I will continue on to repair the intermediate muffler section.  The corroded area is on the canister itself hear the exit pipe

More to come......


  

greg409 -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/25/2007 10:36:30 AM)

DAAANNNGGG!!
hang in there


pcar993 -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/26/2007 10:15:00 PM)

More update....

Continued to repair the intermediate muffler section, this was a little harder because the corrosion was in the middle of the muffler.   First I used paper to made a cut out of the area I need to patch up and then traced the cut out to a stainless steel plate and used the plasma cutter to cut out the shape.  And then welded the plate to the muffler canister.  Installed the muffler back on the car, the results were amazing.  The car actually ran smoother and faster if you believe it!!!!

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler3temp/DSC03501.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler3temp/DSC03504.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler3temp/DSC03505.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler3temp/DSC03508.JPG[/image]

Next repair... ball joints and tie rods

To replace the ball joint you will need a ball joint removal kit, which contains a large c-clamp and variety of fitment rings.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/muffler/muffler2temp/DSC03481.JPG[/image]

There were several difficult to remove items to get to the ball joint.

First there is the axle nut... which is torqued close to 200 ft lb

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03509.JPG[/image]

Basically the caliper, rotor, dust sheild, axel have to be removed.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03525.JPG[/image]


[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03524.JPG[/image]

Once everything is taken apart then it is time to remove the hub, that's where you will need a tie tod remover in order to push the hub down and out.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03578.JPG[/image]

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03579.JPG[/image]

Then it is time to use the ball joint press tool to push out the ball joint, it is also another hard part of the process as you will need to mix and match all assortment of the rings and adapters to get it to work.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/balljointtemp/DSC03580.JPG[/image]

Same for the upper ball joint..... then it is done.


greg409 -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/27/2007 1:18:40 PM)

If you lived closer, (chicago), I'd hang out & hand you clean rags.

Nice job


mrpcar -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/29/2007 9:30:58 AM)

Thanks Greg.

Next project, replacing the front air bags....  More to come.  Then I'll have to find an indy or stealer to reset the EAS and see what happens.  And then tire balance and alignment, and then chase down few oil leak spots....  Man, too many problems too little time. 



mrpcar -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/30/2007 11:48:01 AM)

Finished replacing the worn front air springs. 

Once the wheel liner is removed it is a fairly easy process, the hardest part was poping out the old air bags from the seat.  With the correct angle it pops out easily, but with the wrong force it can be a very difficult process.

The wheel liner is held in place by plastic clips and the mud flap.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/frontspringtemp/DSC03607.JPG[/image]
[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/frontspringtemp/DSC03606.JPG[/image]
Unbolt the 13mm nut that secures the bottom retaining clip, two top clips and the airline the old air bag assembly will easily come out.
[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/frontspringtemp/DSC03603.JPG[/image]
[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/frontspringtemp/DSC03604.JPG[/image]

The new air bags are much longer than the old ones before they are folded on the bottom seat.  So there has to be some folding before it the new bags can go back into the car.

[image]http://p-car.com/temp/rangerover/frontspringtemp/DSC03610.JPG[/image]

Pump up the air bag slowly and then lower the car with a jack stand on under the suspension below the air bag and let the bag fold onto the seat, then you are done.


Disco Mike -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/30/2007 1:17:42 PM)

Great report, sorry I haven't looked at it sooner, you are doing great work.
Mike


mrpcar -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/30/2007 1:24:05 PM)

Thanks Mike.

While changing the front air bags I found out that one of the front shocks is leaking....  Have some Bilstein HDs on order, I guess more problems..... at least they are cheap $300 for all 4 on ebay.



greg409 -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/30/2007 9:05:54 PM)

mrpcar, were those Arnott bags?
I'm going to do my fronts this summer with arnotts probably, I hope you post a review after you wring it out.
excellent posts
thx greg


My bad, I just reread arnotts in the beginning


pcar993 -> RE: 1996 Range rover repairs update (3/31/2007 7:59:38 AM)

Yeah, they are the Arnotts bags.  I believe 1st generation, or whatever the cheapest ones.

Currently I have the ride height pumped to 31" in the front and 31.5" in the rear.  Normal highway driving is very comfortable and stable, but still a little buncy at slow speeds over speed bump, off driveway, or hitting a large dip at highway speeds. But I believe they are caused by the shocks.  Overall I am happy with the bang for the buck. 


  

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