RE: i got issues!!!! lol
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/23/2006 9:37:05 PM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 9590
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: online
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CeeDee,
Don't waist your time trying to drive the pump with your old distributor, pull the pan and get to the heart of the matter. Clean and inspect the pan and pick up tube, clean it out, reinstall the pan and fill. Then go do a pressure test off of the block. This will give you all the info you should need except for the engine run on, which is not too important for now.
Mike
< Message edited by Disco Mike -- 5/24/2006 11:25:40 AM >
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/23/2006 10:06:37 PM
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moneypit37
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/17/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Disco Mike
CeeDee,
Don't waist your time trying to drive the pump with your old distributor, pull the pan and get to the heart of the matter. Clean and inspect the pan and pick up tube, clean it out, reinstall the pan and fill.
Cee Dee and Mike, I would still look at the oil pump. I don't know if Mike is familiar with the internals of this particuliar oil pump, but there is also a screen type filter IN THE OIL PUMP. If there is blockage in the sump tube; what are the odds that some of it has worked its way up into the oil pump/filter?
If you are going to take the time to drop the oil pan, pull the valve covers and clean it is only logical to clean the part that is designed to catch chucks that make it up the sump tube!
If you flush everything else but that screen you are basically defeating the purpose of all that labor.
When you flush, clean and start it up all that gunk will either be forced back through the system or become even more tightly packed if there is a blockage.
While she is down you may as well cover all bases so you won't have to go back in.
The vaseline re-pack will also be a good idea of you going to be bone dry at start-up.
From looking at the wiring diagrams; you may want to make sure the wires are on the coil are on the right terminals.
It looks as if the ignition switch is connected directly to the coil.
The ignition wire goes to the + side and the ampllifier goes to the -.
If need be; I can e-mail you a couple pages with the layout.
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/24/2006 11:31:26 AM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 9590
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: online
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quote:
ORIGINAL: moneypit37
quote:
ORIGINAL: Disco Mike
CeeDee,
Don't waist your time trying to drive the pump with your old distributor, pull the pan and get to the heart of the matter. Clean and inspect the pan and pick up tube, clean it out, reinstall the pan and fill.
Cee Dee and Mike, I would still look at the oil pump. I don't know if Mike is familiar with the internals of this particuliar oil pump, but there is also a screen type filter IN THE OIL PUMP. If there is blockage in the sump tube; what are the odds that some of it has worked its way up into the oil pump/filter?
If you are going to take the time to drop the oil pan, pull the valve covers and clean it is only logical to clean the part that is designed to catch chucks that make it up the sump tube!
If you flush everything else but that screen you are basically defeating the purpose of all that labor.
When you flush, clean and start it up all that gunk will either be forced back through the system or become even more tightly packed if there is a blockage.
While she is down you may as well cover all bases so you won't have to go back in.
The vaseline re-pack will also be a good idea of you going to be bone dry at start-up.
From looking at the wiring diagrams; you may want to make sure the wires are on the coil are on the right terminals.
It looks as if the ignition switch is connected directly to the coil.
The ignition wire goes to the + side and the ampllifier goes to the -.
If need be; I can e-mail you a couple pages with the layout.
If you had read my first post on this topic, I did suggest starting from the top and working down, but as the posts continued it was obvious that the engine shouldn't be restarted until the lower end was inspected, which depending on the findings might include a pump inspection. By the way, I did suggest doing a oil pressure test off the block, which is a good Rover mechanic would have done.
Mike
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/24/2006 5:32:41 PM
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ceedee
Posts: 8
Joined: 5/18/2005
Status: offline
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sorry it's my fault
i guess i should have gotten a better mechanic to work on my truck
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/24/2006 7:44:29 PM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 9590
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: online
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quote:
ORIGINAL: ceedee
sorry it's my fault
i guess i should have gotten a better mechanic to work on my truck
Everyone is allowed one screwed up mechanic adventure, you have has your now it is time to go get her fixed.
Good luck,
Mike
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 5/25/2006 10:02:55 AM
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moneypit37
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/17/2006
Status: offline
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This is called learning... and it is not all your mechanics fault. Engine swaps can be tricky.
There are so many little things that can get bumped or halfway tightened as well as crossed wires.
When you remove 50 or so parts over a few weeks; one or two will come back to haunt you.
Still sounds like you are making progress.
I still think the after run is possibly from the coil.
My logic:
1. One side goes to the ign. and the other to the amp.
2. When cranked it will start.
3. When key is removed and amp is hooked to + side the is an open circuit with no switch.
4. Ing. should cut power to coil; instead it is getting a steady feed from the amp.
5 After run occurs until coil wire is removed.
6. Switching the coil wires should put the switch on the correct side of the coil.
Just a thought I had.
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 6/15/2006 11:14:28 PM
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ROVERTECH_NTR
Posts: 8
Joined: 6/14/2006
Status: offline
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MY 2 CENTS
88 3.5 USES A 14CU ENGINE CONTROLLER.
IS THE"3.9" ECU A 14CUX CONTROLLER?
THE 14CU CONTROLLER HAS AN A/C CONTROL CIRCUT ON THE SAME PINS AS THE 14CUX ECU HAS A TUNE RESISTOR.(OR VICE VERSA??)
RECALL VAGUELY THAT THERE IS A RELAY INSTALL REQUIRED ON THE SWAP, DON'T REMEMBER THIS CAUSING A "RUN ON" ISSUE.
REINSTALL THE 3.5 ECU IS THERE STILL AN ISSUE??
3.9 NO OIL PRESSURE, USED MOTOR, SITTING FOR AWHILE?
THESE MOTORS ARE KNOWN FOR LOOSING PRIME ON OIL PUMP!
PULL OIL DRAIN PLUG, STOCK FINGER IN HOLE AND FEEL FOR THICK SLUDGE ON BOTTOM OF PAN, NOT MUCH?
PULL BOTTOM OF OIL PUMP, INSPECT, IF OK, PACK WITH PETROLIUM JELLY, ASSEMBLE, FILL W/OIL AND RESTART.
SEE WHAT HAPPENS!
MECHANICAL OIL PRESS. TEST=GOOD
PULLING PAN IF SLUDGE FOUND, A MUST
WITH ALL DUE RESPECT TO ALL, I WOULD NEVER CHEMICALLY "FLUSH" AN ENGINE, IF THERE'S A LOT OF CRAP IN IT, YOU'LL BE PULLING THE OIL PAN 3 TIMES OR MORE!
J.T.F.
_____________________________
ALLEN
NORTH TEXAS ROVER
972-869-4881
"DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT!"
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 6/21/2006 2:28:05 PM
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moneypit37
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/17/2006
Status: offline
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I agree, if it isn't worth taking the time to do it right; then it isn't worth doing it at all.
Do it end to end correctly once and be done with it; then keep it clean and it own't be a problem.
My biggest issues seem to be from pure neglect of routine maint. from previous owners.
The other tick in my exhaust IS a nut or something in my passenger cat.
I tapped it with a ratchet and I can hear it bounce in there.
Will this come out the back of the pipe when removed or is there a screen at the exhaust side of the cat?
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 6/21/2006 5:25:02 PM
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ROVERTECH_NTR
Posts: 8
Joined: 6/14/2006
Status: offline
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THE KNOCKING NOISE IN YOUR CAT IS MOST LIKELY PIECES OF THE HONEYCOMB STRATA THAT HAS BROKEN LOOSE FROM THE MAIN BODY, USUALLY MELTED AND CRACKED.
CAUSE IS EXCESSIVE HEAT IN CAT FROM MISFIRE, MELTS INNARDS
UASALLY MUCH NOISER WHEN WARM.
NEEDS NEW CAT, MUFFLER SHOP, UNIVERSAL WILL WORK.
_____________________________
ALLEN
NORTH TEXAS ROVER
972-869-4881
"DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT!"
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RE: i got issues!!!! lol - 6/21/2006 7:44:51 PM
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moneypit37
Posts: 87
Joined: 5/17/2006
Status: offline
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Not what I wanted to hear, but if it is a common thing then it probably is.
It does get worse when warm. When you rev the engine and let off you can hear it rolling around in there.
I will drop it and see if anything comes out; if not I'll take it in and have a new one grafted on.
This thing should done for a while after this round.
All new bushing, tie-rod ends, track rod/adjuster, swaybar ball joints, shocks F/R, a-frame ball joint, oil pan drop, valve cover removal, tune-up, hoses, new brakes and hardware.
Wheel bearings, u-joints, swivel seals and tranny/transfer case fluids are next after the cat.
Have I forgotten anything?
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