RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 2/9/2008 8:04:58 PM
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marshman 442
Posts: 13
Joined: 12/5/2007
Status: offline
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I noticed that most places (Atlantic British $399 plus core and Rover Connection $395 plus core) only sell the front drive shaft. It looks like Rover connection already takes care of the grease fittings that Mike reccommends doing, so that is the one I would get. Does anyone know if the rear shaft is available or does it not have the same issues at the front shaft?
So it looks like the costs would be compared as follows:
(3) u joints at $39.00 ea. = $117.00
(1) Precision 617 Ball Kit = $25.00
plus labor...my guess is $200.00
for a total of approx $345.00
So I say the drive shaft from Rover Connection is not all that bad of a deal. ...or try it yourself and burn up a Saturday and grease all over the work bench. I prefer the swappin out of the parts.
I'll plan on picking up the flex coupler kit with the bolts from rover connection for $95.00l. I just need some help with what to do with the rear shaft. I can pick up one U joint from Rover connection, but wasn't sure if they are all the same size?
Am I missing anything here?...... Or Should I be good to go with buying: 1 front shaft assembly, 1 flex coupler kit, and 1 greasable U joint...?
< Message edited by marshman 442 -- 2/10/2008 8:04:52 PM >
_____________________________
2001 Land Rover Discovery II - 163,000 miles
2001 Lexus IS 300
1999 Mercedes ML 430
1996 Convertible Cobra
1965 Olds 442 - Blown BBC 8-71 - 1100 HP
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 2/23/2008 11:37:26 PM
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phatduc
Posts: 9
Joined: 12/18/2006
Status: offline
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no you're not missing anything, u pretty much summed it up. You are not very likely to need new bolts unless you've been drving in extremely corrosive environments, inwhich case the ujoint bolts would be the least of your problems. I read on the forums that the rear UJ lasts ALOT longer than the front cardon shaft joints. Sure enough I found that my rear UJ was indeed in terrific shape thanks to regular greasing. I replaced it anyway since I was there, & it took all of 20 minutes after the on the job training i got changing out the 3 UJs on the front shaft. You could swap out the front shaft assembly easily in 2 hrs start-2-finish, see if that fixes your problem, and then do the rear shaft joints later as needed. Enjoy!
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 2/23/2008 11:39:26 PM
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phatduc
Posts: 9
Joined: 12/18/2006
Status: offline
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yes, the rear UJ is the identical part as the front 3 UJs.
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 2/24/2008 8:23:58 PM
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Philhowe
Posts: 36
Joined: 2/10/2008
Status: offline
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quote:
I noticed that most places (Atlantic British $399 plus core and Rover Connection $395 plus core) only sell the front drive shaft. It looks like Rover connection already takes care of the grease fittings that Mike reccommends doing, so that is the one I would get. Does anyone know if the rear shaft is available or does it not have the same issues at the front shaft?
Shall I assume that TVB000110A same item # for the 03?? On Rover Connection the item states that it is for 99~02. But you know what happens when you assume!!!!!!!! Please advise!
< Message edited by Philhowe -- 2/24/2008 8:27:49 PM >
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 4/28/2008 5:03:06 AM
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marshman 442
Posts: 13
Joined: 12/5/2007
Status: offline
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Well.....I took the advice of the forum and avoided a disaster. I replaced all of my U joints and Flex rotor this weekend. (BTW - I had 168,000 miles on the original joints).....Not hard to do at all if your are a gear head and know your way around the car. My question is this....
Prior to pulling the drive shaft(s) I marked everything to ensure things went back the way they came out. But, during the process of the rebuild I lost a couple of the marks on the the matting surfaces between the drive shaft and the weight on the T-case. I am 50% sure I put it back the way it came out since the bolt pattern(s) only allow it to be off by 180 degrees......
Now I have some slight harmonic vibration at about 55 - 65 MPH only....nothing at lower or higher speeds. This vibration is ever so slight, but yet I don't want it to cause other damage or trouble down the line.
Is there an easy way to fix this w/o having a multiple of trial and error sessions of pulling the DS and putting it back until it goes away?
_____________________________
2001 Land Rover Discovery II - 163,000 miles
2001 Lexus IS 300
1999 Mercedes ML 430
1996 Convertible Cobra
1965 Olds 442 - Blown BBC 8-71 - 1100 HP
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 4/28/2008 6:23:34 AM
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unstable
Posts: 172
Joined: 4/20/2008
Status: offline
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I'm in the same boat. I'm glad someone made a post on this.
Questions:
(3) u joints at $39.00 ea. = $117.00 (Rover connection part# TVC100010A???)
(1) Precision 617 Ball Kit = $25.00
#1-The U-Joints sold at Rover Connection are what type? Are the precision PCN-344 acceptable?
#2-Where do I get the 617 Ball Kit? Does Rover Connection have it also? I don't see it.
quote:
one last consideration... there's a seal on the input shaft to the front differential. I discovered mine was leaking a bit when putting the shaft back in.
#3-Any recommendations for finding that seal? Might as well replace it while we're at it.
Thanks,
-u
< Message edited by unstable -- 4/28/2008 6:34:49 AM >
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 4/28/2008 6:55:06 AM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 10490
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Darover
You can get a new one from Atlantic British for 399.99
Yes you can, the problem is, it also does not have grease fittings. If you want to buy new, buy a new shaft from Tom Woods for around $320 and his have all the grease fittings and is a better then factory drive shaft.
_____________________________
Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club,past member of the SCLR club and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, Warn winch, HID lights and an Engel 45.
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RE: Front Drive Shaft U-Joints - 4/28/2008 6:59:20 AM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 10490
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: marshman 442
Well.....I took the advice of the forum and avoided a disaster. I replaced all of my U joints and Flex rotor this weekend. (BTW - I had 168,000 miles on the original joints).....Not hard to do at all if your are a gear head and know your way around the car. My question is this....
Prior to pulling the drive shaft(s) I marked everything to ensure things went back the way they came out. But, during the process of the rebuild I lost a couple of the marks on the the matting surfaces between the drive shaft and the weight on the T-case. I am 50% sure I put it back the way it came out since the bolt pattern(s) only allow it to be off by 180 degrees......
Now I have some slight harmonic vibration at about 55 - 65 MPH only....nothing at lower or higher speeds. This vibration is ever so slight, but yet I don't want it to cause other damage or trouble down the line.
Is there an easy way to fix this w/o having a multiple of trial and error sessions of pulling the DS and putting it back until it goes away?
Did you install a new centering ball kit, if not that is your problem. If you did install a centering ball kit, when reassembled, di you test rotae the joionts to meake sure it moved freely?
_____________________________
Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club,past member of the SCLR club and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, Warn winch, HID lights and an Engel 45.
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