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RE: conventional or synthetic oil?

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RE: conventional or synthetic oil? - 3/2/2008 5:40:45 AM   
Spike555


Posts: 5964
Joined: 6/22/2007
From: Grand Rapids MI
Status: offline
No you do not have to use a Mobil 1 oil filter, just use a good brand like NAPA or Purolator, these guys like the Mobil 1 and K&N oil filters, but I refuse to pay $10 for a oil filter so I use either NAPA, Purolator or Mopar.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use a Fram oil filter, they are junk and that is the number one manufactor of oil filters for the quick lubes, they just paint it a different color and put their name on it.
As far as $70 for a oil change goes...most of us change are own, you can buy 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and a Mopar oil filter at Wal-Mart for around $30. And if you do it yourself you know for a fact that all of the other fluids were checked.
Those quick lubes are a rip off, you found that out. 
When using full synthetic you dont need to change it every 3,000 miles, you can go 5,000. Land Rover recommends 7500 miles but that is way to long in my opinion.
Hope this helps.


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Post #: 11
RE: conventional or synthetic oil? - 3/2/2008 4:43:02 PM   
jonsocal

 

Posts: 19
Joined: 2/20/2008
Status: offline
OK, a little info on those "quick lube" joints.  My girlfriend didn't want to wait for me to change her oil, so she took her Corolla there one time.  She came home and her Corolla was smelling really bad and was smoking all over the place from under the hood.  You guessed it.  They didn't put the oil filler cap back on.  Oil was everywhere.  I told them to come to our house to clean up the mess and that they needed to tow her car to their place and take car of this problem.   Their idea of taking care of the problem was to send two flunkies to our house with a little bottle of de-greaser and some oil.  The proceeded to squirt that on the engine and then take my garden hose and start hosing down the motor.  (not bothering to check if the engine was hot or not.)  Now I had oil all over my driveway and a dirty car which then started to sputter when we started it.  The two flunkies thought they were done.  I took pictures of the car before they came over, then again as they were "fixing" the problem and then afterwards.  What a bunch of morons.  I asked for our money back and they were fighting me the whole way.  We were having issues with the electrical system for weeks after that.  We were looking into taking them to court, but a couple of weeks later a Ford F250 decided to run a red light and plow directly into me.  This was the ONE time I drove her car and just to get ithe gas filled up.  Needless to say, the car was toast and the electrical problems were gone with it......  The morale of the story.... Change your own fluids.  Make the purchase of the ramps, tools, funnels, etc.  The first time it will be a tad expensive, but you will make up your entire purchase price the second time you complete a fluid change and you will have the peace of mind knowing that the job was done correctly!

< Message edited by jonsocal -- 3/2/2008 4:49:44 PM >

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Post #: 12
RE: conventional or synthetic oil? - 3/2/2008 6:36:27 PM   
seaosrover


Posts: 47
Joined: 12/19/2007
Status: offline
X2     Change your own oil......!!!!!   If the flunkies at the quick lube place can do it, how hard do you think it is. And yes synthetic is way better than conventional. And you and your engine will be better off in the long run.

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Post #: 13
RE: conventional or synthetic oil? - 3/3/2008 6:24:58 AM   
Landzu

 

Posts: 2097
Joined: 4/7/2005
From: Dallas TX
Status: offline
If you do go for the synthetic oil use the use the Highmileage
Mobil One.

It will help the seals.

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Post #: 14
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