RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations
Login  | |
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/12/2008 11:08:44 AM
|
|
|
Luv2Disco
Posts: 58
Joined: 2/1/2008
Status: offline
|
Andrew, You need to tell the driveline shop what you need done. Order the parts at Auto-Zone or a similar place. The precision u-joints (3) and centering kit (1) will work just fine. It may take a day for them to get them for you. Then take the parts to the shop and tell them what you want them to do. Alternatively, you can tell them the part numbers that fit and they will either get them or cross reference it to something else they can get. If you have read the threads here in the forum you know what you want done and why. You need to understand that driveline shops work on drive shafts from a variety of equipment, not just cars and trucks. They also work on big rigs, agricultural and oilfield equipment. At least they do here. You shouldn't be surprised if they're not familiar with your Discovery, that doesn't mean they won't do an excellent job.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/12/2008 11:44:18 AM
|
|
|
andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
Status: offline
|
Tom Wood's...just looked up their website...is this a good option? Have others put on this drive shaft?
JEFIII, how did you order? Did you have to provide specs, or do they keep info on file for building a replacement Disco II drive shaft?
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/12/2008 2:51:04 PM
|
|
|
Disco Mike
Posts: 9554
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline
|
If you have to buy a new shaft, Tom Woods is one of the best for around $350, you'll need to give him specific measurements when ordering.
_____________________________
Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club,past member of the SCLR club and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, Warn winch, HID lights and an Engel 45.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/12/2008 3:28:01 PM
|
|
|
andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
Status: offline
|
What can you tell me about the rubber coupling on the rear drive shaft? British Pacific mentioned this in an email to me:
"I would first inspect the rubber coupling on the rear driveshaft. That's far more likely to be in need of replacement at 60k miles. Look for cracks in the rubber or any distortion from circular"
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/13/2008 2:28:29 AM
|
|
|
antichrist
Posts: 78
Joined: 9/4/2007
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: andrewmcoffin
What can you tell me about the rubber coupling on the rear drive shaft? British Pacific mentioned this in an email to me:
"I would first inspect the rubber coupling on the rear driveshaft. That's far more likely to be in need of replacement at 60k miles. Look for cracks in the rubber or any distortion from circular"
That's called a Rotoflex, not unique to Land Rovers. With 60k you're probably going to need to replace it before long, if not now. The more lift you have the sooner you'll need to replace it. It's designed to absorb driveline vibrations and shock loads to some extent.
Tom Woods are good drive shafts, but also heavy duty. If you don't have a lift and do hard core off-roading you're fine with the stock front. It's fine for 99% of rovers.
There is nothing oddball about a DII front propshaft. In fact the u-joints are the same as a volvo, the shop probably has them in stock. Just tell them the PN's mentioned previously. I do really suggest the Neapco though, as you [B]must[/B] grease them and the zerk in the end cap makes it a lot easier on the DC.
Since yours isn't currently failed, you have time to shop around. You should be able to get it done for $150-$200 max. $300 is WAY too much.
< Message edited by antichrist -- 3/13/2008 2:38:30 AM >
_____________________________
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/13/2008 6:29:53 AM
|
|
|
JEFIII
Posts: 25
Joined: 10/31/2007
Status: offline
|
If you decide on the Tom Wood's option, all you have to do is call them and tell them you need the front drive shaft for your appropriate Disco and they want the measurement from the surface of flange on the transfer case to the surface of the flange on the differential. It should be around 24-25". Very simple to measure with a tape or yard stick. That's it. You'll receive it in a few days. Two 9/16" wrenches are all that's needed to remove the nuts on your old shaft and install the new one. Hope this helps. JF
_____________________________
2004 Disco II, 52k miles
Bilsteins
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/13/2008 8:33:24 PM
|
|
|
andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
Status: offline
|
So, what's the consensus? I'm willing to spend $350 on the Tom Wood's drive shaft if it's money well spent. It sounds like it would cost that much to have a driveline shop rebuild my current shaft for me anyway. Am I getting a superior, more reliable, longer lasting shaft by replacing the whole thing with a Tom Wood's?
If I were more confident with this stuff, I'd try to do the rebuild myself--but I'm not, and so I'm tempted to just buy the Tom Wood's shaft and be done with it. But I also don't want to throw money at something that I don't need to, or that's not really going to put me in a better position...
Also, what grease/tools to I need to do the regular maintanence on the Tom Wood's shaft?
At this point, I just need to be pushed in one direction or another by those with more knowledge and experience...I'm actually enjoying learning about all of this, and really appreciate the advice on this board.
|
|
|
|
|
Printable Version
