RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 9:01:10 AM
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humroot
Posts: 159
Joined: 7/18/2007
Status: offline
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Andrew - I just had this done on mine. I treid to do it myself, but couldn't get the center ball out. The driveline shop had to cut it out with a torch. Here is what I suggest you do:
Buy the parts listed in thread - 3 u-joints and a center ball kit.
Remove the shaft yourself.
Take it do a Drive Line shop and have them rebuild it. It cost me $50 since I already took out.
Put the driveshaft back in when rebuilt.
I think this is the easiest and cheapest way to do it without dealing with the centerball kit. Also, the driveline shop will balance it....makes a huge difference.
Just my .02.
_____________________________
Jamie
2001 Disco SE7 - 97,000 Miles
OME 751 Springs in Front
OME HD Shocks
SLS with 2" Spacers
ACE
Member Old North State Land Rover Society
http://www.theoldnorthstate.org/
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 10:55:02 AM
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antichrist
Posts: 78
Joined: 9/4/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: andrewmcoffin
So, what's the consensus? I'm willing to spend $350 on the Tom Wood's drive shaft if it's money well spent. It sounds like it would cost that much to have a driveline shop rebuild my current shaft for me anyway. Am I getting a superior, more reliable, longer lasting shaft by replacing the whole thing with a Tom Wood's?
Also, what grease/tools to I need to do the regular maintanence on the Tom Wood's shaft?
I can't believe you can't find someone to do it for less than $300, but maybe that's CA. If that's really the case, then yes, Tom Woods is overkill, but for $50 more I'd say worth it.
A grease gun and good waterproof grease. I prefer Castrol Pyroplex Blue.
< Message edited by antichrist -- 3/14/2008 10:58:05 AM >
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Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 11:00:02 AM
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antichrist
Posts: 78
Joined: 9/4/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: goldfishy
I thought the Neapco brand was not a recommended manufacturer, meaning you get what you pay for? Don't mean to step on toes here. There was a couple of better made products.
Only because people know the Spicer brand, not knowing that Spicer doesn't even make the 5-4x u-joints. As for getting what you pay for, Neapco boxed u-joints are about the same price as Spicer boxed.
Sorta like people saying Timken bearings are better bearings than SKF or FAG.
< Message edited by antichrist -- 3/14/2008 11:01:05 AM >
_____________________________
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 11:11:19 AM
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andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: okdiscoguy
If you are looking to replace your rear shaft with a Tom Woods, you may have to change the adapter at the rear diff. Right now you have a rotoflex, and it will need to be switched to an open yoke to accept another U-joint on the rear.
1. Is the above statement accurate? I ask because other comments led me to believe that the Tom Woods drive shaft would simply and easily replace the OEM--someone on here described it as a 20-minute process I think. But do I need to buy/change the rear adapter? I definitely want to know exactly what I'm getting into with the Tom Woods, particularly if there is more expense or labor involved...
2. I will probably replace the rotoflex regardless, as several people have recommended. British Pacific has a replacement for about $70. Does this sound about right?
3. I just called the other Ventura driveline shop that DiscoMike recommended, and described what I wanted just as helpfully outlined above--buying the parts and removing the drive shaft myself, and simply delivering it to them to rebuild and balance. They quoted me $235+tax. At this price, am I still better off buying the Tom Woods?
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 12:19:45 PM
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Disco Mike
Posts: 10523
Joined: 4/27/2006
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There is no reason, other then breaking the rear shaft, to replace it. Just plan to replace the rotoflex every 80,000 miles or when you see it starting to crack.
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Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club,past member of the SCLR club and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, Warn winch, HID lights and an Engel 45.
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 1:27:58 PM
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andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
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Tried Coast Driveline again, with more specific info from this thread, and this time the guy I spoke to didn't even want to take the project. Kept saying that they've never done a Land Rover before, and didn't want to even talk about the project until he had the drive shaft and parts in front of him. Which is not going to happen.
So $350 for a new shaft from Tom Wood's vs. about $254 for a rebuilt shaft from what seems to be the only local shop that can do the work...
Any answers on whether installing the Tom Wood's shaft requires other modifications to the vehicle?
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 2:36:24 PM
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Luv2Disco
Posts: 77
Joined: 2/1/2008
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Andrew, I called coast driveline and asked them to estimate the labor on what you need done. After some discussion they told me labor shouldn't cost more that $100 bucks. The reason they want you to bring in the shaft and are hesitant to quote a price is because they want to make sure they have the equipment (flange attachments) to do the job right. After looking at coast driveline's website and talking to them I can't imagine them not being able to do it. Seems to be an awesome shop. One other thing, they will not install any "cheaper" parts such as Neapco or Precision so you should probably just take them the numbers for your joints and centering kit and let them source and supply them. They'll use Spicer parts if available for your application. On the other hand, for another $100-150 bucks you can get the Tom Woods shaft. These are your choices, just depends on how much money you want to spend.
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 4:18:34 PM
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D2000
Posts: 7
Joined: 4/23/2007
Status: offline
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I just installed my Tom Wood’s drive shaft last week.
I am very happy with the product and they are a great company to deal with.
The basic shaft is about $320 shipped but I opted for upgraded shaft for an extra $30 (probably over kill for me).
For the extra money you get a superior product with no issues trying to find a shop that hopefully knows
what they are doing.
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