RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/14/2008 8:41:17 PM
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Luv2Disco
Posts: 77
Joined: 2/1/2008
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quote:
ORIGINAL: antichrist
quote:
ORIGINAL: Luv2Disco
One other thing, they will not install any "cheaper" parts such as Neapco or Precision so you should probably just take them the numbers for your joints and centering kit and let them source and supply them. They'll use Spicer parts if available for your application. LOL Too funny. I bet you dollars to doughnuts they don't even know that Spicer doesn't make the 5-4x u-joints. In fact, I think Neapco has done some 5-4x production runs for Spicer because some had the zerk fitting in the end cap, which only Neapco has. But people will believe what they want.
I hear you. I started to get "spun-up" when he spouting that but I figured, "what the hey" at least they're gonna use the best parts they can find so let him think what he wants. I myself bought Precision joints for my shop to install in my truck. I asked my tech if they were O.K. and he said they were just fine, that they used them all the time with no problems. I figured he knew what he was talking about since it's a very busy shop. Anyway, my shaft looked like new when they re-installed it. I'm sure the Woods shaft is great but probably overkill for me. With the money I save I'm throwing an Optima battery in it. By the way, I was pricing them at Sam's club and they told me they do a 100% free exchange if the Optima fails in the first two years. After that it's pro-rated. free install also.
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/15/2008 6:53:58 AM
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antichrist
Posts: 78
Joined: 9/4/2007
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quote:
ORIGINAL: andrewmcoffin
Luv2Disco: Thank you for making that call. It clearly helped for them to be speaking with someone who knew what they were talking about. At least I know this may be an option still.
D2000: How did the Tom Wood's install go? Did you have to replace the adapter at the rear differential?
Personally I wouldn't use a Spicer 5-4x u-joint since I have no way to know who made it. But it's your choice of course.
Ok, I'm confused now. I thought it was your front propshaft you want to rebuild. you don't need to do anything to the rear shaft when you do the front.
If your rotoflex coupling is cracked, then yes, you should replace it. If you don't have like a 2" or 3" lift the rotoflex is fine and you can get them for $30-$40. A BMW one fits, can't remember which model BMW.
If you do decide to go with a rear Tom Woods (or GBR, which is what I have in the rear) then yes, you need to swap out the pinio flange on the diff. My GBR shaft came with a replacement 4 bolt flange, so I expect the Tom Woods does as well.
_____________________________
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/15/2008 9:35:03 AM
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OJs DNA
Posts: 40
Joined: 2/27/2008
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Okay here goes the first post, the only thing that is confusing reading this thread is that half of you speak to replacing the u-joints with greasable u-joints - I got that. But the other discussions are centered around getting a new or repairing the driveshaft, so which is it? To fix the common probelm problem here are we replacing u-joints or driveshafts, or both?
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/15/2008 10:24:27 AM
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Luv2Disco
Posts: 77
Joined: 2/1/2008
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quote:
ORIGINAL: OJs DNA
Okay here goes the first post, the only thing that is confusing reading this thread is that half of you speak to replacing the u-joints with greasable u-joints - I got that. But the other discussions are centered around getting a new or repairing the driveshaft, so which is it? To fix the common probelm problem here are we replacing u-joints or driveshafts, or both?
You have two choices. Cheapest choice is to simply have your driveshaft rebuilt BEFORE it breaks and needs to be repaired or replaced, this is simply a matter of replacing three (greaseable) U-joints and the centering kit. Any shop you use should clean up the shaft, possibly paint it, and also balance it too. The second choice is to go with a new replacement driveshaft from an aftermarket supplier. This will cost more but may be worth it depending on how you use your truck. My shop suggested I spend $400+ for an aftermarket driveshaft but I decided to have it rebuilt at a driveline shop for about $175.
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/15/2008 11:04:56 AM
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andrewmcoffin
Posts: 126
Joined: 7/14/2007
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quote:
ORIGINAL: antichrist
Ok, I'm confused now. I thought it was your front propshaft you want to rebuild. you don't need to do anything to the rear shaft when you do the front.
If your rotoflex coupling is cracked, then yes, you should replace it. If you don't have like a 2" or 3" lift the rotoflex is fine and you can get them for $30-$40. A BMW one fits, can't remember which model BMW.
If you do decide to go with a rear Tom Woods (or GBR, which is what I have in the rear) then yes, you need to swap out the pinio flange on the diff. My GBR shaft came with a replacement 4 bolt flange, so I expect the Tom Woods does as well.
Thanks for helping to clarify...I thought that this might be the source of confusion. It is the FRONT shaft that is likely to fail, needs, the greased fittings, and could be replaced with the Tom Wood's option, right? The REAR shaft is not as likely to fail, aside from the rotoflex cracking?
Or do I have that wrong?
By the way, what is the GBR option?
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RE: Drive Shaft/U Joints -- help & recommendations - 3/15/2008 2:33:36 PM
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antichrist
Posts: 78
Joined: 9/4/2007
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: andrewmcoffin
Thanks for helping to clarify...I thought that this might be the source of confusion. It is the FRONT shaft that is likely to fail, needs, the greased fittings, and could be replaced with the Tom Wood's option, right? The REAR shaft is not as likely to fail, aside from the rotoflex cracking?
Or do I have that wrong? Correct. Though eventually the u-joint near the gearbox will need to be replaced. I put on a GBR propshaft years ago so can't remember if the OEM shaft had a zerk in the u-joint or not.
quote:
By the way, what is the GBR option?
Great Basin Rovers
_____________________________
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
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