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72chevy -> RE: Fuel Delivery problem???? (5/8/2008 6:51:20 AM)
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I just replaced the fuel pump on my 96 4.0 last weekend. You don't need a special tool. I sprayed penetrant around the ring to get into the threads and tapped it off counter clockwise with a screw driver and a small mallet. It starts to move a little at first then you start to see bigger gains with each tap. Once it's a little loose you can get your hands on it and turn it by hand.
Before I spend any money on something, I make sure it's what I need. I checked the relay in the engine compartment and it was working, but I went ahead and jumped it from the battery and still got no buzz from the tank. Just before pulling the pump out of the tank I tested for 12 volts at the connector when turning the key. I got voltage, but still no pump buzz. That proved that the pump was shot.
Let me tell you what I did, because I am low budget all the way. I did what they showed on the www.rangerovers.net website as an alternative to removing the tank. I raised the right rear seat, made some distance estimates and cut the carpet, padding and sheet metal floor to reveal the fuel pump assembly. The work came out clean and it worked great. This is what the Land Rover engineers should have done- add an access panel. Furthermore, I bought a pump at NAPA auto parts for $79 that fit on the money and was rated at 47 psi. Put it back in the tank and it fired right up and runs great. I don't have the big bucks to take to a shop or dealer. Plus, I can do a fine job myself.
The custom access panel I made proved to be a great decision, because I had to pull the pump twice. The first pump I got at Pep Boys looked good, but after I put it in and drove it, the truck was sluggish taking off from stops. It ran ok at higher speeds. I put a pressure guage on the fuel injector rail and it only had 14 psi at idle. That pump was for a 97 Chevy Astro Van with a 4.3 V6 with THROTTLE BODY fuel injection (lower pressure requirement). I took it back out of the Rover the next day in just a few minutes and I went to NAPA. I don't remember what the application was for, but what mattered was that it would fit the dimensions for mounting and that it provided the right pressure (40-50psi). I've got the box and part number at home if you're not afraid to go that route.
I just noticed that your vehicle is a Classic. No problem, I did the same thing on my 89 classic about 6 years ago and it's still running fine. I put a pump from a 90 something Toyota Fore Runner with a V6. It even gained performance from before I changed pumps.
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