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CandiMan -> RE: Rod Knocking? (5/20/2008 6:36:19 PM)
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quote:
ORIGINAL: witedoor Long time MB/BMW Tech here with first experience in LR's. So I bought this '95 Discovery with 172K on it for the girlfriend. I checked it over, everything seemed hunky dory except for a slight valve tick. No big deal. Well about a month later we head out to do some camping, I get in it and there it was "the dreaded knock!" Not sure how, but she has grenaded every engine she lays her hands on... So here's the deal, lets see what you guys know: -The guy that had it before changed the oil with 5w-30 syn. -After I discovered the knock I changed the oil and put in 15w-40 A. I saw it recommended on another forum. B. Thought it might help me figure out what the knocking was. -The knock starts after the car is warmed up and under slight load (1/4-1/2 throttle). Will do it underload standing still as well (power braking). -I put an oil pressure gauge on it. Got about 38 psi cold and about 32-34 warm at about 2000rpm. Right around 20 psi at idle warm. So I'll make this multiple choice: A. Rod Knock B. Main Bearing C. Wrist Pin D. Loose Bolt on Flex disc E. Bent Push Rod F. Something in the trans G. other suggestions If it is a rod knock: What's the best way to go about this (Cheapest and Easiest)? A. Can I drop the pan and throw some rod bearings at it? B. Pull the whole engine and do pistons, mains, rod bearings, rings etc? A. Could be a rod knock. From what you're discribing, it's very possible B. Main bearings usually make noise only at start up when oil pressure is low. Once pressure builds main bearing nosie usually goes away. C. Wrist pins can have the same knocking noise like a rod D. Loose flex bolt is also another possibility, but since we're dealing with a Land Rover with their infamous oil pressure, oil sludge problems, I wouldn't think it's not a loose flex bolt E. See answer D. F. See answer E. G. My only suggestion is to do a cylinder cut-out while the engine is knocking. Simply disconnect a spark plug wire or fuel injector harness one at a time to see if you can isolate which cylinder is knocking. If you disconnect the plug wire or fuel injector harness and the knocking stops, you've just found the which cylinder to concentrate on. I just purchase a Disco that had excess sludge from top to bottom. Oil pan, oil pick up tube, rocker shaft assembly, engine valley lifter area and valve covers. Unlike yourself, I had less than 10psi of oil pressure, which slowly droped as the engine got hotter. 99.9% of vehicles(engines) on the road you can drop the oil pan and change rod bearings with little to no problems. Fortunate for you (and me) Land Rovers are no different. Here's a pic of my oil pan removed showing easy access to the rod caps. [image]http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/2/web/3002000-3002999/3002336_101_full.jpg[/image] I haven't had a chance to check my rod bearings, but that's definately on the to-do list. If it does turn out to be a rod knock, I wouldn't necessarily pull the engine for a mild to complete rebuild. There are a lot of other variables I would consider before pulling the engine. - What's your intent for the truck
- How long are you planing on keeping it
- Sounds like your mechanically incline, so you would probably will be doing your own work.
- Do a compression test. Better yet, do a compression test and a leak down test. That will tell you how efficient your cylinders are sealing.
- If all those look good and it's just the rod bearings, why pull the motor.
I have a detail thread in the Disco section showing my adventures with my truck from day one Good luck
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