Brake Fluid Change?!?

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Brake Fluid Change?!?

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Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 11:44:17 AM

unstable

Posts: 172
Joined: 4/20/2008
Status: offline I'm contemplating replacing the stock rubber caliper lines with the stainless-steel jobs. I figure this would be a good time to flush out the old brake fluid...but I did have some questions.

I read something on the RAVE CD about NEVER allowing the brake fluid master cylinder to go below the "MINIMUM" mark. If I recall correctly, it said to add fluid while bleeding the old fluid out of the cylinders. This seems kind of bizarre...I guess it would work, but why mix old fluid with new fluid if you're trying to get rid of the old?

But the warning really stuck in my head...I didn't want to toast the brake modulator by saying "screw this! we'll do it my way!"

Insight?

Post #: 1

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 11:53:51 AM

starcraft

Posts: 167
Joined: 9/7/2007
Status: offline When I changed my brake fluid I continued to top off the reservior every once in a while. I would pour it slowly into the reservior, trying not to mix the old and the new fluid together. I think you are supoosed to believe that the old/new fluid won't mix if you dont drive around, and that when you bleed the brake the old fluid just gets pushed out with the new fluid coming in on top of it. Thats what I think at least . Hope that helps

_____________________________

1999 D2 with 130,000miles
EBC Slotted and Dimpled Rotors
EBC Greenstuff Pads
BFG AT KO 255/70/16
Magnecor 8mm and Bosch Fusion

(in reply to unstable)

Post #: 2

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 12:17:06 PM

unstable

Posts: 172
Joined: 4/20/2008
Status: offline Sounds like a fun assumption.

(in reply to starcraft)

Post #: 3

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 12:50:18 PM

jkid

Posts: 649
Joined: 9/26/2007
Status: offline I don't think you will hurt anything by sucking as much as you can out first with a syringe and then refilling it with clean fluid. I worked fine for me. Just don't hit the brake pedal with the reservoir empty. I think the minimum mark is a safety thing so there is no chance of getting air in the system.

_____________________________

01 D2 SE (90K miles) Stock For now
1982 Mercedes 300SD (270k miles)

(in reply to unstable)

Post #: 4

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 1:34:54 PM

Landzu

Posts: 2094
Joined: 4/7/2005
From: Dallas TX
Status: offline Ok you are going to get a lot of air in the system by changing the brake lines.

I changed mine and just topped the fluid up to keep the fluid coming out the new brake lines.

Then I had help to bleed the system one pumping the brake pedal the other at the calibers and we got a lot of air out.

You will like the steel lines.

_____________________________

I do not need the National Geographic channel
I just look out the windows of my Land Rover
Discovery code name Romulus
Prefix-N or 1996
Classic Discovery,
RPi remapped ECU
NRP Preformance cats/Y-pipe

(in reply to jkid)

Post #: 5

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 1:57:50 PM

unstable

Posts: 172
Joined: 4/20/2008
Status: offline Landzu-
Did you notice a vast increase in your pedal after moving to the steel lines? I'm not particularly happy with the Disco's brakes. I just put on new pads all of the way around and that stopped the squeeking and I have a more positive pedal and better braking, however; the pedal still seems pretty non-responsive to me. I don't have any lights lit, no leaks, the reservoir is filled up. It doesn't feel spongy, so I don't think it's an air-in-the-lines issue...the pedal just doesn't seem to grab too well.

I spoke to Disco Mike about this and he immediately said something like...You'll have one of two situations with the brakes...Either 1, the pedal won't really respond on the first push but then the second push will put you through the windshield...and #2 is the pedal isn't too responsive.

So I figure the pedal woes were just sort of normal with the Disco. I'm sure some new rotors wouldn't hurt either.

(in reply to Landzu)

Post #: 6

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 2:23:36 PM

Disco Mike

Posts: 11153
Joined: 4/27/2006
Status: offline Do switch to the new brake lines, your brake pedal will be firmer and you will have less brake fade.
E-mail me your tele number and I will walk you thru the process.
mikeljacobs@comcast .net

_____________________________

Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club,past member of the SCLR club and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, Warn winch, HID lights and an Engel 45.

(in reply to unstable)

Post #: 7

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/21/2008 5:04:00 PM

Spike555

Posts: 5963
Joined: 6/22/2007
From: Grand Rapids MI
Status: offline When you flush the brakes you keep flushing the system until only clean fluid comes out. So when all is said and done any old fluid that is left will a very small amount.

_____________________________

If it ain''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''t leakin'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' it must be empty!
Yes, one man can change the world.
If the citizens are affraid then they are easier to control.

The "Storm Trooper",'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''

(in reply to Disco Mike)

Post #: 8

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/22/2008 4:30:55 AM

Landzu

Posts: 2094
Joined: 4/7/2005
From: Dallas TX
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: unstable

Landzu-
Did you notice a vast increase in your pedal after moving to the steel lines?

I did notice a improvement but not a vast one.
I had changed out my OEM lines with more OEM lines when my Disco was ten years old (2 years ago) as the book called for but I thought I would improve on what I had.

When you put the pads on did you sand the brake disks as sometimes they are glazed.

_____________________________

I do not need the National Geographic channel
I just look out the windows of my Land Rover
Discovery code name Romulus
Prefix-N or 1996
Classic Discovery,
RPi remapped ECU
NRP Preformance cats/Y-pipe

(in reply to unstable)

Post #: 9

RE: Brake Fluid Change?!? - 5/22/2008 6:19:05 AM

unstable

Posts: 172
Joined: 4/20/2008
Status: offline I didn't bother sanding the rotors, I guess if they were glazed over it would make an improvement...but honestly it feels less like glazed rotors and more like a generally unresponsive pedal. Perhaps it's just the design?

Typically after replacing the pads, the pedal will jump substantially and become more stiff..but not really the case when I replaced the pads on the rover.

I'm going to look into doing the rotors and the new steel lines as well as flushing the system. This is "UPGRADES" and not "maintenance" :) So no big rush and I should enjoy it.

(in reply to Landzu)

Post #: 10

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